NY Times Sweet On Hamburger Hamlet, Kate Mantilini Founders

Sunday, May 22, 2005 11:52


Hamburger Hamlet and Kate Mantilini founders Marilyn and Harry Lewis were given an inexplicable amount of ink in Sunday’s New York Times Magazine. Lynn Hirschberg has written “Queen of the Hamlet,” a flattering profile of 73-year-old Marilyn Lewis’ career as a restauranteur, clothing designer and film producer. Amanda Hesser follows up with the corollary, “The Way We Eat: When Harry Met Marilyn,” a light historical piece on Hamburger Hamlet that includes recipes for the restaurant’s famous Lobster Bisque and Cherries Jubilee.

One of the motivations for the two stories seems to be Mantilini architect Thom Mayne’s recent Pritzker Architecture Prize. Another, of course, is the suggestion that the Lewis’ altered the way Hollywood eats by serving quality meals to the hoi polloi. Hesser intimates that Marilyn Lewis was also an early proponent of the no-carb craze: “For actresses trying to trim their waistlines, Marilyn would prescribe a hamburger with no bun and a side of sauerkraut.” The writer also suggests that Spago, the Ivy and Jar are pricey iterations of the Hamburger Hamlet of days yore.

Hirschberg’s story does answer the question many have asked since Kate Mantilini opened in the 80’s (other than, Why can’t they get some decent bagels?). Apparently Kate Mantilini was the name of Marilyn Lewis’s uncle’s mistress in the 40’s. Why she made an impression on Marilyn Lewis remains unknown.

If you are a retro Hollywood clothing fan, Cardinali, Marilyn Lewis’ short-lived clothing line, will be displayed at Decades on Melrose next month. One of the pieces is “a metallic jumpsuit that Dyan Cannon wore on her first date with Cary Grant,” Hirschberg notes.

Photo credit: Matthias Vriens, New York Times

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5 Responses to “NY Times Sweet On Hamburger Hamlet, Kate Mantilini Founders”

  1. mark cravens says:

    October 2nd, 2006 at 12:23 am

    Dear H.L and M.L. Hi! (what is URI?) My hope and prayer today is that this e mail finds you well and still making a difference. Besides my parents, you made the biggest impact 0n me on how i conduct my self as a working professional.To this day, My foundation is based firmly on my time spent as an employee of yours.I’ll never forget it, some two hundred hopfulls showed up at the Hamlet Gardens, If i am correct, Fran Pomerantz sorted out all of the potentials,(she was awesome).! Mock service had an A team and a B team.I was chosen to the B team. Promised nothing except a first look if someone on the A team dropped off. The only reason I got noticed was becuse I dressed Suit with Tie.(parents credit). In short, I spent six years on Glendon Ave,I am forever thankfull to have had that opportunity. I currently reside in Oklahoma City, OK. (home town). I hold the position of Opperations Mgr for Dollar Thrifty Auto Group.(tenth year)! Thanks to you. with love and respect. Mark S. Cravens.

  2. todd smith says:

    October 9th, 2006 at 7:53 pm

    HI YOU TWO,
    I’M LIVING IN HAWAII AND LOVIN’ IT. I AM A CORPORATE TRAINER WITH MORTONS OF CHICAGO. MOVING TO HAWAII WAS THE BEST THING I COULD HAVE DONE FOR MYSELF. I’M THRIVING. THE SLOW PACE AND BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE ARE A WELCOME DELIGHT
    I WANT YOU BOTH TO KNOW HOW MUCH INFLUENCE YOU HAD ON MY LIFE IN THE SERVICE INDUSTRY AND IN LIFE IN GENERAL.
    MARILYN, ALL THOSE WONDERFUL BLACK LADIES THAT YOU TAUGHT IN THE EARLY DAYS ARE THE BELLES THAT SHOWED ME THAT SERVICE IS ALL ABOUT ”GRINNIN’ AND LICKIN’. REST THEIR SOULS. I SAW MANY OF THEM DIE AND BE PUT IN THE GROUND. WE USED TO SIT IN THE BOOTHS AT THE VAN NUYS STORE ON OUR BREAK AND TELL STORIES AND JUST LAUGH UNTIL WE CRIED. THEY WERE GREAT GIRLS. TO THIS DAY WHEN IM TALKING TO GUESTS I WILL HEAR AN INFLECTIOIN IN MY VOICE THAT SOUNDS JUST LIKE MISS SALLY OR MISS IRENE.
    THOSE WOMEN REPEATED YOUR WORDS AND TAUGHT YOUR STYLE OF SERVICE BECAUSE IT WORKED. IT MADE THE GUEST FEEL AT HOME. LIKE THEY WERE BEING TAKING CARE OF. ITS THE STYLE I UTILIZE TODAY.
    YOU AND MR. LEWIS WERE A SECOND FAMILY TO ME. 19 YEARS! MA DOYENNE, MA COCO CHERE ,I OWE MY SUCCESS IN THIS INDUSTRY YOU.
    ALL MY LOVE
    TODD SMITH

  3. J. Dean Loring says:

    October 26th, 2006 at 7:05 pm

    1987, Kate Mantilini Wow! I was one of the minion managers, 29 years old and ready to learn about comfort food and serving the public.

    I got more than I bargined for. Although the his/her black/yellow Corniches were cool, it was the heart, soul and intuitive nature of my mentors that made that set it off.

    Comming to work in my 1971 MG GT at around 11PM with a two hour wait at the door was amusing.

    By 6:30 Am when I finally got out of there, driving home (with a Cristal buzz) made the rising hot smog and commuter taffic all that more surreal.

    Marilyn was sublime in her nature and confidence. Her intuitive abilities astounding. She knows her audience.

    Harry, ever calm and relaxed. Charming and the perfect host. Gracious in his direction and reserved in his irritation. Things go wrong in restaurants. Even this one. Revenue and expenses were both huge.

    The nature of Beverly Hills Culture in the late 80’s were evident everywhere.

    Musso and Frank may have invented this idea, but Harry and Marilyn re-invented it on a grand scale.

    Kudos to everyone involved.

    Warren Beatty in the booth, Billy Cyrstal at table # whatever, Tom Cruise (looking short at the bar,) it never stopped. Full time Hollywood/Beverly Hills Culture. The stories go on forever.

    This was a restaurant coop. A perfect place at the perfect time. Black Monday was huge. Heh.

    Chef Lance Katcher was a maniac. He thew pan at the Lava Platos. Kate Mantilini was the quintessential food-culture experience.

    I learned everything about the restaurant business. Through Hamburger Hamlet and Kate’s with Herb Avery’s downfall to demonstrate the brutality of that start-up giant.

    Best memories and a place in American Culture.

    J. Dean Loring

  4. Jeanne says:

    June 3rd, 2008 at 3:07 pm

    My mother worked for the Hamburger Hamlet for over 30 years. She loved her job and was a devoted and loyal employee. She is 90 now and suffering from severe dementia and complications from a stroke. I recently asked her if she remembered working at Hamburger Hamlet. Her only reply was, “yes,” pause “they didn’t do anything for me when I retired.” Imagine how much that hurt her if its one of the few things she remembers.

  5. mark s cravens says:

    November 15th, 2008 at 1:48 am

    Hi If this note finds it’s way to Harry and Marilyn, please say hello, tell them that Oklahoma city has just popped! NBA has said yes, Forbes has said yes, Fortune 500 companies have said YES! Oklahoma city is recession proof. Don’t take my word for it, Your due diligence is required. The NBA is the the anchor, The time is right for expansion, we are smart but we need outside influence, 16 years in So Cal, 6 years in NYC tells me we need the risk takers now! The Gardens,Kates, Hamburger Hamlet concepts,would all be homeruns , pick one! any one, There is a need for all three . Thiis market demands outside competion. your research and development people will goo goo once they look. ;) My best, m,cravens@cox.net

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