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Beacon opened to much hype, especially because the owner and chef is Kazuto Matsusaka, formerly head chef at Chinois. I never quite fell into the hype, but I became extremely curious after Los Angeles Magazine ranked Beacon the #1 restaurant in Los Angeles. What could be so great about Beacon to put it ahead of some of my favorite restaurants (Patina, Mélisse, L’Orangerie, and Mission 261)?

So last night, one of my friends, who was not impressed with his previous visit to Beacon, indulged me and took me to dinner there at my urging. When I arrived, he was sitting at the bar enjoying a very intriguing drink – a clear liquid with a hint of pink and a chunk of fruit in the center. One of the bartenders he had been talking to was quick to inform me sake infused with pineapple (the chunk of fruit) and cranberry (the hint of pink). I took a sip and then had to order one all for myself. In all fairness, there were other sakes available, such as a lychee infused one, but I kind of tuned everything else out once I started enjoying the pineapple-cranberry one.

It took us a while to figure out what to order, and when we did, our waiter expressed his doubts. Apparently, he didn’t think we ordered enough. He went on to explain our choice of one small plate (think appetizers), one noodle dish, and one big plate (think entrée) is not much food and most customers order at least two small plates and two large plates. We wound up getting two orders from the small plate, two orders of noodles, and one order from the large plate. Slight service note: although our waiter was somewhat helpful, his service really left much to be desired. The rest of the staff we interacted with – bartenders, other waiters, and even the busboys – were all super nice and friendly. Our server was the not attentive enough, was very stiff, and occasionally came off condescending. We did not get the feeling like he particularly wanted to serve us. My friend and I hope that he was just having a bad day because compared to the rest of the staff, he was weak.

Small Plate
We started off with the crispy spring rolls ($3.95) and avocado salad ($4.75). While both were overall good, neither was spectacular. What we liked most about these two dishes was really the sauce. The sweet sauce accompanying the spring rolls incorporated sesame, some soy, vinegar, and a slight citrus taste. It surprisingly light and complemented the egg rolls well. As for the avocado salad… the only thing that displeased me was the word “salad.� This dish is basically thinly sliced avocado served with cilantro leaves and scallions. Good but not impressive.

Noodles
I had heard quite a bit about how good the green tea soba noodles were and had to try them for myself. Actually listed under the “salad� category, the soba noodles ($9.95) certainly do have a green tea flavor to them, but I doubt I would have recognized it if someone were to have just served it to me without telling me what it was. While this dish was nice, along with the grilled shrimp, it really did not live up to the hype for me. What was surprisingly good was the kakuni udon - noodles with pork belly. While the noodles themselves were not up to my standards, the flavor of the soup was excellent. The flavor of the pork belly really resonated in the soup creating a slightly salty and sweet taste simultaneously, and it was absolutely delicious.

Large Plate
By this point, I was starting to agree with Gayot’s assessment of Beacon, which was overall pleasant food but “nothing to write home about.� Then came the turning point in the meal… the black cod basted in miso ($17.95). I’ve had this and similar dishes (sea bass in miso, salmon in miso, etc.) at other restaurants, and Beacon’s is tied for first place in my book. While none of the other dishes had impressed me, the black cod did. It was very tender. Miso has become such a popular ingredient that many Asian restaurants try to incorporate it into their entrees, but I often find many restaurants overpowering their fish with miso and there is often a lack of sweetness to the taste. Beacon is one of the few restaurants I’ve been to that got it just right. To have something as delicate as the texture of the fish to be mixed with the rich flavor of the miso was delightful.

Dessert
Just when you thought I was done… One of my weaknesses is dessert, so how could I possibly leave Beacon without trying something from the dessert list? My friend and I decided on the Rice Krispy Sundae ($6.50). Three scoops of vanilla ice cream on top of pieces of rice krispy treats, topped with chocolate syrup and a cherry. Nothing special, but a nice way to close out our meal.

So bottom line: I do think Beacon is overrated, but I still liked it in general. Maybe it was just the night we went. My friend even admitted the food was better this time around for him. The black cod and the sake were the two main winners from last night. I would still pick dinner at Patina, Mélisse, L’Orangerie, or Mission 261 over Beacon any night.

Beacon
Helms Building
3280 Helms Ave. (Washington Blvd.)
Culver City, CA 90034
310-838-7500
Daily 11am-2:30pm
Tues-Wed 5:30pm-9:30pm
Thurs-Sat 5:30pm-10:30pm

By Pauline (see more of her posts).