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Dim sum junkies have probably spotted the numerous reports on New Concept kicking around out there — from the LA Times to dozens of Chowhound Los Angeles reports as well as Eating L.A. (Who else can I name-check!?)

New Concept is the first American branch of a chain with 28 restaurants in China, five in Beijing. Chowhounders have pointed out many personal faves which I admit to not writing down before leaving the house. I wholeheartedly agree with EatingL.A. about New Concept’s service: less than solicitous.

Did they call no. 158, yet?
We waited for about 40 minutes to get a table on Sunday. It wasn’t a big deal since we were able to walk our dog around the neighborhood. We worked up ridiculous appetites in the process. I think the wait causes many people, like us, to impulsively choose the first thing to whirl past the table. We ended up with a deep fried shrimp mousse stuffed with a small egg. It was lovely looking, if a bit greasy, while the bits of canned pineapple garnish were ready for the dumpster. But the insta-shrimp dish helped us organize our thoughts before choosing from a 68-item menu.

Our picks by menu number:

20 Chiu-Chow Style Dumplings (pictured, left) — Very soft, if thick, steamed skins, they taste of celery and steamed peanuts with an undercurrent of hearty meat and seafood. All-in-all, very fresh, warm savory ingredients. ($1.98)

23 Sticky Rice Roll (pictured, right) — I prefer my sticky rice steamed in lotus or banana leaves as opposed to nigiri-wrapped and topped with roe. The sticky rice itself had nice bits of pork in it but I can do without the incongruent appearance of flavors I’m conditioned to associate with fresh fish. ($1.98)

24 Shanghai Dumplings — Someone on the Chowhound board wrote that New Concept’s Shanghai dumplings are superior to Din Tai Fung’s in Arcadia. Wot?! Din Tai Fung blows the roof off New Concept’s Shaghai dumplings. Din Tai Fung’s skins are fresher and more delicate, the dumplings burst with hot, brothy flavor and the steamed fillings are ultra-fresh. But, New Concept’s Shanghai dumplings are perfectly okay, a fine plate to add to a mixture of dishes. ($2.98)

31 Spare Ribs with Black Bean Sauce (pictured top, lower left corner) — Color is wan and unappealing, and I found it typically difficult to pick through the splintery bones and rubbery fat, but the meat itself is very tasty given some effort. ($1.98)

53 Sweet Green Tea Flavored Dumplings (below) — This is a (water soluble green food coloring dyed) cross between a Phoenix’s Egg and a steamed black sesame cake. Good times. The sweet fried dough helps offset the saltiness of the dense black sesame paste. ($2.98)

61 Stuffed Lotus (pictured top, lower right corner) — Neither of us have had this dish before and we really enjoyed it. The lotus is thick and snaps when you bite it, like a potato chip. The silver dollar pancake-sized pieces sandwich a light shrimp mousse. The stuffed lotus comes in a mild sauce that tastes a bit like oyster sauce that made love to a steamy boullion. (This was my mate’s favorite dish while the Chiu-Chow Dumplings came in a close second.) ($1.98)

63 Mushrooms & Pork Dumplings — A Phoenix Egg that’s classicly made and served very hot. It tastes just right and you can have it cut in half by a scissors-happy server if ya like. Straight ahead goodness. ($1.98)

66 BBQ Pork Pie (pictured top, upper right corner) — I’m used to eating ratty old cold bbq pies from various take-out places on Clement in SF. New Concept’s pastry dough is flakey and buttery. The sweetened top is polished with rich honey made slightly nutty by a smattering of toasted sesame seeds and the bbq inside is sweet and smokey. This was my favorite dish although it’s really a standard that’s well executed. ($1.98)

Misc. notes: New Concept’s tea is a flowery and fragrant sweet jasmine. We polished off our large pot quickly. The waitstaff is pretty clued out, but well-kempt, and a few may even make eye contact with customers if collared. The restaurant provides branded plastic napkin packets that hold a bunch of thin folded tissues. It’s like wiping your sticky, grotty fingers with a Kleenex, thereby compounding the problem with new fluff stuck on top. (BYON)

Our one odd experience is not really a reflection on the restaurant. A young woman came into the back room where we were seated with a 12- to 16-month old child. Before seating him, she checked his pants, and then proceeded to change his diaper in the middle of the dining room. She balled up his dirty diaper and left it on the floor under his high-chair for the rest of the meal. That definitely subdued my appetite. (I doubt that she looked but there aren’t any changing stations in the restrooms anyway). I’m only glad the sprog wasn’t wearing split pants since he probably would not have been prevented from unloading on the dining room carpet.

If I were to situate New Concept within the L.A. dim sum landscape I’d say it falls somewhere between the massive Sea Harbour Seafood and the upscale and lovely Mission 261. I’d take my germaphobe friends with tremulous stomachs and lots of cash (as Pauline previously noted) to Mission 261; the nonchalant friends who want to be immersed in a chaotic cart scene to Sea Harbor; and experimental dim sum fans to New Concept — so they could try dishes they’ve never tried before and educate me along the way.

New Concept serves both well realized and very average dishes. I’d say its strongest point is the variety of dishes on the menu supplemented with even more daily specials.

New Concept Restaurant
700 S. Atlantic Blvd.
Monterey Park, CA 91754
626.282.6800