LA Times: Blink-Reading the Restaurant Issue

Sunday, June 19, 2005 1:30
Posted By SoCalorie in category LA.foodblogging, Websites

I haven’t seen the print edition tonite but it looks like the LA Times is publishing a Special Restaurant Issue, themed Lotus Land, in the magazine (Calendar Live, whatever) section tomorrow.

Stories include:

    The Dining Guide: A survey of 250 SoCal eateries. (Ouch. The K-Town listing is beat. In fact, each district has only around 10 entries. Think of it: Every neighborhood in L.A. will have something to gripe about.)

    SIV does a pull-out section on just Asian eats., e.g., Chinese food is getting bold and bright at New Concept in the San Gabriel Valley, where chef Chen Chen Liang is busting tradition with such dishes as flash-fried shrimp accented by the nuttiness of toasted oatmeal.

    I can tell you first-hand that chef Liang’s customers are also breaking with tradition in the dining room and it isn’t pretty.

    The Times throws chef Liang another 1,000+ words, by writer Russ Parsons, who claims New Concept’s chef is “changing the face of Chinese cuisine in Los Angeles.” It’s a nice profile and Parsons has the good sense to quote Chinese restaurant maven Carl Chu, author of Chinese Food Finder: Los Angeles and San Gabriel Valley, (who) says chef Chen’s visibility “is groundbreaking, if (New Concept is) willing to stick to it.”

    Dan Neil writes about how punishing it is to work in a kitchen as a “short-order warrior” in Cooks on Fire. Excerpt: At least there aren’t any Monte Cristo sandwiches, which take agonizing minutes to make. Chef, I need a Monte Cristo!

    There’s also a soft celeb-oriented story on night clubs with Asiatic themes by Andrew John Ignatius Vontz (oy… wonder if the Times’ “hipster” cub reporter knows what “vontz” means in Yiddish). I think I have enough creepy celebs in my diet, thanks. Vontz last wrote for the magazine about “hipster hairstyles,” or so it says next to his byline.

    SIV covers new-ish scoff-spots like Providence, Meson G, and the Hungry Cat in Eat Here Now.

    There’s also a random side-bar that highlights ingredients and tools used in Asian cooking. The mini-profiles include dosa, chopsticks, matcha, goji berries and strainers. Some nice photo opps, but a jumbled selection of Asian food stuffs.

I’m just glad LAT is keeping a local focus. I thought that last Sonoma wine special issue was … uhm … not so helpful.

Photo credit: makster

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5 Responses to “LA Times: Blink-Reading the Restaurant Issue”

  1. Pauline says:

    June 19th, 2005 at 2:14 pm

    Not to pat ourselves too much on the back, but having glanced over at the Dining Guide link, I find everyone’s posts here at la.foodblogging and at Chowhound to be a lot more useful. I already knew a lot of our favorite restaurants would be left off the survey, but that aside, here are my issues with the Dining Guide:

    1) Some of those restaurants have not been reviewed since 2003. Things change - chefs, menus, management, locations, etc. - so just because what a critic wrote a couple years ago may have been accurate doesn’t mean it still is today. For instance, Cafe Stella was on the list (reviewed 7/14/04), but I tried to go there back in February only to find the place shut down and deserted. I’ve been trying to find out if Stella went out of business or just moved.

    2) The star rating system they use. They state that no star means poor or unsatisfactory, but not all the restaurants without a star are bad because some of the restaurants were reviewed before they started using that rating system. Shouldn’t there be an easy way for people who don’t have the time to read the whole thing to figure out if the unstarred restaurant is a winner or a must-avoid?

    I think I’ll stick to the recommendations by my fellow foodies.

  2. Andrew Vontz says:

    July 21st, 2005 at 2:56 pm

    yeah, I know what Vontz means in yiddish bro. Do you know what it means to me, though?

  3. SoCalorie says:

    July 21st, 2005 at 2:59 pm

    Nope. What?

    Are you still the token hipster reporter at the Times now that thay’ve decided that hipsters are no longer cool?

  4. Andrew says:

    April 5th, 2006 at 9:00 am

    Actually, hipsters have never been cool. Slow cookin’ y’all.

  5. Goji-Girl says:

    March 14th, 2009 at 4:56 am

    …Gut geschrieben und intressant zu lesen vielen dank f?r den informativen Artikel.

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