Figaro
Tuesday, November 29, 2005 17:11Lately…oh, hi. I’m Steve, a new contributor.
Lately, I’ve been on a tour of French Bistro/sidewalk cafe food. This was not deliberate, it just ended up that way, and when I say ‘tour’ it means I’ve been to four in the past few weeks. La Dijonnaise, Rouge, Bouchon and Figaro Cafe. The one I frequent, uh, frequently is Figaro Cafe.
Figaro Cafe is a charming French sidewalk cafe and boulangerie set amid the quaint storefronts and theaters on nouveaupunk Vermont Avenue in Los Feliz Village. Figaro is a truly cozy venue. Even the emulation of the French sidewalk atmosphere offers a cocoon where diners can enjoy a quiet meal without the distractions of other diners or passers-by. There is no barrier, just the environment effectively washes away extraneous city bustle. Inside, dark mahogany and antique fixtures set up an old world feel.
I’ll avoid the obvious euphamistic jokes on how I surrendered myself to the lobster bisque, or why I question the fact that every time I go into a French restaurant, it is magically staffed by people with French accents even though there is no definitive French community anywhere in Los Angeles. Yes, the city is populated with actors, I already figured that out.
Bistro food to the French is what McDonald’s is to Americans, and they have us beat, hands down. Service is quick, the food is reasonably priced and prepared with care and affection. Some other time I will do a deconstruction between haute cuisine and bistro, but I’ve discovered the foundation is the same. Bechemel, cognac cream peppercorn, melted guyere, are all some of the common ingredients between the two distinct cooking styles.
Figaro offers the staples of bistro dining. A sweet, lovingly simmered onion soup, with plenty of browned cheese hugging the crock starts off any good meal.
Their escargot, however, are prepared differently than the drowned-in-garlic butter style…and I like them drowned in a pool of garlic butter. This is your only warning, they are presented stylishly, but a bit too much of the gamey snail creeps through the tomato garlic dressing. At first chew, it is rich and flavorful. By chew three it is rubbery and snailish. By chew six it can taste a bit like spent gum. Chew 12 finds it broken down into a gut-like, muddy ball. Yes, I wish I could swallow at chew three, but you are probably familiar with the dynamic of trying to choke down something rubbery and slightly too large, and its ability to trigger the gag reflex. You have to choke through six of them.
Escargot aside, if you are familiar with bistro fare, you proabably know the standards, but I’ll run down a few: Chicken and mushroom crepes with cream sauce, ham and guyere sandwiches, beef bourgnion, thyme chicken, fromage plate, creme brulee, fondue. All the foods are rich and exciting (except the aforementioned escargot…try the ones at Rainbow Room, you’ll be surprised). I know I may be speaking in generalities, but, like my comparison to McDonalds earlier, any competent French bistro will make these dishes with the care and flavor they deserve. I’ll get into specifics when the food fails to live up to my expectations, and Figaro surpasses them.
They have a respectable wine list, but I stick with Chimay Red label on tap. Chimay is Belgian ale brewed by Trappist monks. It has a fruity taste, nice weight, and decent alcohol content. Other Belgian ales can suffer from being overmalted, thickly sweet and undercarbonated, but Chimay Red is perfectly paired for a hearty French meal.
Figaro is located at 1802 Vermont Ave in Los Feliz, valet parking is available to shake you down, or you can circle for six hours and park nine blocks away…if you’re not familiar with Vermont Ave.
By Zteve (see more of his posts). You can find more of Zteve's writing at his own website Gastrologica
Kristy says:
November 30th, 2005 at 2:08 pm
Steve! Welcome to la.foodblogging! Good to have you on board, and great review! I’m not a big fan of escargot but love anything cheesy - food or otherwise. If you haven’t already been to Cafe Beaujolais on Colorado, I’d add it to your Tour de French food. ;)
Why We Type says:
November 30th, 2005 at 4:48 pm
I’m going to take the Chimay Red suggestion. I’m such a cheapskate, I never ventured to try it in the stores. I wonder if it looses something sitting bottled on the shelf.
Zteve says:
November 30th, 2005 at 5:01 pm
Of the two, Red is [in my opinion] more palletable. It has the fruitiness without the overbearing syrupy flavor I’ve found in other Belgian ales like Draken or Chimay Blue…which is more expensive anyway! I don’t think it loses anything in the bottle. Give it a shot, lots of flavor without overpowering what you’re eating, but stands great on its own. Want to try a hideously sweet, overpriced beer at $8 for 8.5oz bottle at the store? Thomas Hardy Ale. Heralded as THE classic barleywine, I give it a qualified “Bleeeech”.
Erin says:
November 30th, 2005 at 7:43 pm
I have to say, as someone who lives just up the street, I’ve always found Cafe Figaro disappointing. Waaaaayyy too expensive for whatcha get, despite the pleasant environs. As mentioned above, Cafe Beaujolais in Eagle Rock is a gazillion times better. Also, after reading the review in the LA Times today, I’m intrigued by the new french place in Burbank, Bistro Provence
MaxMillion says:
December 1st, 2005 at 2:03 pm
I agree, The Fig is pricey. $13 for a salade nicoise? I was there recently for lunch and ordered the Croque Monsieur which was okay. In fact, I was actually remembering a better one that I’d got on grilled cheese night at Campanile… swathed in a fabulously cheesy bechamel sauce.
mrhooks says:
December 1st, 2005 at 4:12 pm
I agree, Figaro is too pricey for both the food and the experience (which are both okay, but not spectacular). The service at Figaro is rather spotty as well. Although not the same kind of restaurant, I’ve had better food, service, and overall experience at Lucques, and for less money to boot.
I don’t drink beer, but even I have to agree that Chimay Red is good stuff.
Jan says:
December 15th, 2005 at 1:34 pm
Just had an absolutely wonderful experience at Figaro Cafe. They started us off with a basket of French bread which was exceptional. I ordered hot tea and it came freshly brewed in a large gold teapot, pipping hot and with a glass container of fresh, organic honey. I had Eggs Benedict accompanied by small, quartered potatoes, baby salad greens and a decanter of Basalmic vinegar. Service was outstanding. I have been to Cafe Beaujolais on Colorado in Eagle Rock and enjoyed that too but, of the two, Figaro Cafe is my favorite and the type of place I will enjoy going back to again and again. Did not find it expensive. A great find!
C.R. says:
June 3rd, 2006 at 4:19 am
I will definitely have to try this one, then!! I’ve worked in 2 French bistros in LA and both left a lot to be desired all around. Figaro sounds a lot more tantalizing and any French bistro that serves escargot and crepes has got my attention (though I swear no one makes better crepes than a friend of mine - and he’s Chinese!!!)! Does Figaro have ratatoui (sp?) and is it better than me mum’s?
Also, French bistros compared to McDonald’s? Heaven forbid someone put those two in the same sentence. Granted, French food may increase your cholesterol just a tad, it’s notabley far tastier and classier than anything ever dreamt of by any McDonalds consumer. Who eats that crap?
So, now I work for a French chef @ a catering company (he’s a Prod’homme, naturally) so I think I am now a polished judge of French cuisine, given that I can compare and contrast authentic, mouth-watering French food from the cheap knock-offs. Can’t wait to try Figaro (and Cafe Beaujolais)!!
Has anyone tried French 75 in Burbank?
Mestopholes says:
July 4th, 2006 at 3:08 pm
are you up in your head?
Mestopholes says:
July 4th, 2006 at 3:08 pm
he wasn’t comparing it to mcdonald’s in that way..
JB says:
July 17th, 2007 at 7:47 am
Five years ago Figaro was priced fairly now it is a complete rip-off, a joke and the cooking is far less authentic and tasty!
French bistrot cooking :try Mimosa on third street!