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I was about to walk out. I never heard of such a thing, and now to be staring at prices I considered punitive–I was damn near insulted. How dare they, the owners of Harold and Belle’s, charge $18 for a large gumbo for lunch. Are you out of your mind?

Let me back up. Harold and Belle’s is a Creole restaurant that’s been on Jefferson, just east of Crenshaw, since 1969. Black food has a long and rich heritage, cutting a huge cultural swath across the South, much of which was co-opted by the white community over time. Louisiana is a true exception, having its roots and culture derived from a completely different genealogy than other parts of the deep south. As with any traditional, or ‘peasant’ food, the genesis is the same: underprivileged and oppressed minorities had to make dishes from either what they could afford, or what was given to them. Therein lay the basis for much of Southern Black food in America.

Well, I always smelled something disingenuous when a snob took peasant food, served it on a table with white linen cloth, and charged triple of what it would normally cost anywhere else. Then I started thinking that this is pretty much how every other food type got upscaled. Certainly the Celtic Gaulles who invaded France lo these many years ago brought their peasant food with them, and now it is Haute Cuisine. Mexican, Vietnamese, Chinese, Italian have all gone through this transformation. So, no, it is not unusual. In fact, back in Washington D.C. where I am from, one of the first upscale Southern restaurants came into existence, Georgia Brown’s.

By that same measure of logic, Harold and Belle’s should be in Beverly Hills, but they stayed true to their roots. Jefferson and Crenshaw is in the heart of the Black community, which celebrates all manner of Creole and Soul food along the Crenshaw corridor (Phillips BBQ is a whole other post…), but it has been there for 36 years…and worth every penny. Harold and Belle’s is THE upscale Creole restaurant in Los Angeles, bar none, and I’m basing this off two dishes I had today.

The lady was nice enough to say if I ordered the $19 portion of shrimp and crawfish etoufee, she would kick in the small ($12) gumbo. Fine, I was sold, but skeptical…but not for long.

The gumbo is served in a souflee dish overflowing with seafood, chicken, crab and andouille sausage. There is roux, but it is not the centerpiece. The gumbo was heavy, incredibly complex and flavorful. Frankly, I felt stupid afterward thinking I would even eat three bites of the etoufee, but then I remember that etoufee is usually a pile of rice with the stew ladled on top. Nope. It was a vast bowl of crawfish, shrimp and sausage swimming in a fantastic sauce…with a small heap of rice in the middle. There was no way I was going to finish this, and I didn’t.

I’m not going to intentionally put down another restuarant, but I’ve never been that impressed with the Gumbo Pot at the Fairfax Farmer’s Market, and now I am convinced it is 3rd rate stuff. Before you get up in arms you HAVE to go to H&B and have the gumbo to even begin to understand what I’m talking about.

Everything on the menu is standard Southern food: ribs, chicken, greens, corn on the cob, macaroni and cheese, catfish, etoufee, gumbo, jambalaya (made several ways), but with that little extra something (something even huge portions alone couldn’t justify) that makes it a great experience. That something, by the way, is butter. I have to say if you thought the garlic butter bread at Versailles is overwhelming, you ain’t had the bread at H&B.

The decor is not extravagently elegant, but it is a nice and comfortable space. The staff is friendly and the place is jumping with energy. Granted H&B is out of the way, but this is a destination restaurant, and I don’t usually rave about food like this unless it hits a unique niche. I’ve eaten at Emeril’s restaurants before, and Commander’s Palace, I can assure you this place could stand right next to them, and in fact, surpasses them.

Harold & Belle’s
2920 W. Jefferson Blvd.
Just east of Crenshaw

By Zteve (see more of his posts). You can find more of Zteve's writing at his own website Gastrologica