Maximilians — Fine French fare in NoHo
Wednesday, January 11, 2006 18:48
STOP PRESS: As of 8-11-06, Maximilians is closed for “staff vacation”. No date has been set for their reopening.
Tucked away in the NoHo Arts District is an unexpected find; a fine French dining experience minus the stuffy atmosphere and high prices found elsewhere in LA.
Open since mid-March 2005, Maximilians is a little gem in the Valley just north of Magnolia at the corner of Tujunga and Weddington. Chef Marc Boussarie delivers a selection of authentic French Bistro fare with a light touch.
Outside is a sweet, canopied courtyard. Inside are two gently lit rooms with a French-country motif and polished woods. White-clothed tables set the mood for relaxed, refined dining. Meals begin with warm slices of crusty baguette and herb-laced butters. The entire menu has plenty of tantalizing options to draw you back again and again. Available on the weekend, the specials are worth sampling.
A standard option is the French Onion Soup, dressed with caramelized onions, gruyere cheese and buttered croutons. I opted for the soup du jour ($6.50); a delicious puree of cauliflower and carrot with tiny pieces of vegetables adding a little texture. This soup was divine and so like a bisque that I had to be convinced there was no cream present. A quick word on the stunning presentation. My deep soup bowl arrived with the vegetables in the bottom. Our server followed by dramatically pouring a jug of steaming broth into my bowl. Impressive theatrics! Best of all, this soup doesn’t overwhelm the palate nor the stomach. Boussarie proves he is an artist when it comes to soup. He clearly relishes his work.
My companion devoured the Dungeness crab salad with a refreshing lemon vinaigrette. Typical of French chefs, the salad was a little too salty for my taste, but that aspect was off-set by the segments of pink grapefruit and soothing avocado with delicate threads of crab and snow pea tendrils distributed throughout.
My entree was a buttery, pan-fried filet of John Dory, which is thin and lightly-flavored; a little like sole or sand dab. Here it’s served with melted leeks, cabbage and artichokes and napped with a foamy foie-gras nage (sauce).
I urged my companion to sample the Columbia River Sturgeon. It was pan-seared and served with roasted cabocha squash puree, a cauliflower and chanterelles relish and drizzled with a syrah reduction sauce. Sturgeon is a dense fish, though not as firm as halibut and not as flaky as sea bass. This dish, with its earthy autumnal flavors of squash and mushrooms, is perfect for this time of year.
Other popular entrees from the open kitchen include the Filet Mignon ($28.50), the Organic Crispy Roasted Chicken ($18.50) served with eggplant mousseline and also the fabulous-sounding Bouillabaisse ($21). This classic fish stew, served with garlic croutons and a rich, mayonnaise-y rouille, surely will be worth returning to try.
Wine was elegantly served in their own tiny carafes. We sampled a couple by the glass and found them complex enough to delight.
Desserts are made daily and provide the perfect conclusion to a superb meal. A dreamy panna cotta was paired with oven-roasted strawberries and strawberry sauce. The special was a chocolate cake layered with piped cream and topped with crunchy, caramel-covered banana slivers. It was served with sticky, prune-like cherries in a reduced sauce.
Maximilians is the ideal choice for an exquisite lunch or dinner. Their devoted cuisine is high quality and satisfying, without burning a hole in your wallet.
Final comment — what a great name for a restaurant!
Maximilians
11330 Weddington St.
cnr Tujunga
North Hollywood CA 91601
(818) 980-6294
Lunch 11.30am – 2.30pm; Dinner 5.30pm – 10pm
Closed Sundays and Mondays
Please note — this review was also published in the Studio City and Sherman Oaks Sun newspaper under my (real) name.
By MaxMillion (see more of her posts). Max Million is the nom de 'net of Pauline Adamek. Born in Sydney, Australia, Pauline has lived in Los Angeles for the past ten years and finds it agrees with her. She has been reviewing films and filing celebrity-based interview articles since 1991, and has filed stories from various international film festivals, including Cannes, Venice, Berlin, Toronto and Sundance. She is completing a family cookbook and also writes novels for 8-12 year olds.
eatdrinknbmerry says:
January 12th, 2006 at 10:12 am
Nicely written post. I’m in for anything that includes Foie Gras.
MaxMillion says:
January 12th, 2006 at 10:37 am
Actually the fois gras FOAM was a bit of a disappointment! Put it this way, my non-meat eating companion could have ordered that dish.
GOURMAND says:
January 12th, 2006 at 1:43 pm
Your review gets the essence: a real diamond in the rough! However, having eaten there a few times, I think you need to tell the more pampered of your readers that the locale is “off the beaten” path and not Ventura Blvd chic. There’s Zero scene to speak of (if you’re into that).
Oh, I agree that they’ve got a heavyhand with the saltshaker.
btw- Have you tried Bistro Provence in Burbank on Pass Ave? It’s in the same vein.
MaxMillion says:
January 13th, 2006 at 3:31 pm
I have yet to try Bistro Provence, but I’ve heard good reports!
Thanks for your comments. It’s good to have readers who fill in the gaps.
Funny, I didn’t think to mention the “scene” — or lack, thereof. This is NoHo — kind of a given, non?
mysterydiner says:
February 22nd, 2006 at 3:35 am
Good food, though I must say that it’s astonishing this chef’s temper tantrums behind the counter. Slams things, throws things, swears at employees. I even witnessed him shove his helper in the chest. Suitable dining if you can tolerate the a-hole abusing his employees. And he doesn’t even own the joint. Some attorney does.
rturner says:
April 5th, 2006 at 10:22 pm
This chef made a step up the ladder from Casa Del Mar to this wonderful little restaurant. The fare reflects his great taste and exceptional knowledge of French foods. The service is a bit lacking, but nothing could be worse than it’s location and environment. Resembles a funeral parlor complete with a surround iron gate that tells you you’re not escaping - or maybe yet, protects you from the gang wars outside.
DontDineHere says:
April 19th, 2006 at 10:36 am
Scary as hell locale, dumbbell waiters, lacking wine list, idiot manager, creepy fence surrounding the restaurant who’s front door’s in the back. Not a charming idea after the recent quincinera shoot just around the corner.
MaxMillion says:
April 19th, 2006 at 2:59 pm
Well, what did you think of the food? Did you actually dine at Maximilians, or are you merely alerting us to some unfortunate incident that recently occurred four miles north of the restaurant?
I agree that the location is not particularly salubrious nor trendy, but you certainly aren’t risking your life to park on the street (valet not required) and cruise inside.
At least someone is trying to bring class and fine cuisine to North Hollywood.
Also I’ve yet to see any evidence of bad behaviour in the open kitchen.
Now that summer’s nearly upon us, I am looking forward to enjoying lunch in their quiet courtyard.
NotMaxMillion says:
April 28th, 2006 at 12:58 pm
You’re right ….
The cuisine leaves a diner wanting more - perhaps in a more intimate, serene setting like Old Towne Pasadena, Beverly Hills, or a Malibu Estate. Not dirty North Hollywood.
“At least someone is trying to bring class and fine cuisine to North Hollywood.”
LOL!!!! Same social “class” the owner and employees are from? Gimme a break! That’s not class.
“I’ve yet to see any evidence of bad behaviour in the open kitchen.”
But then most times he’s dined there, he was drunk half under the table! Sure you didn’t notice the fumes pouring out of the chef’s ears?
“Now that summer’s nearly upon us, I am looking forward to enjoying lunch in their quiet courtyard.”
Be sure to get your table under that humungo bungo umbrella so you can shield yourself from having to watch the homeless push their grocery carts past you. You’ll certainly enjoy the iron barracade then!!
Jonah says:
April 28th, 2006 at 2:26 pm
I can’t see that your comments are really adding to the discussion, you don’t enjoy the place or the food. Okay, we get it.
Please don’t post under someone else’s name. You don’t have to use your real name, but it’s poor form to hijack someone else’s.
Mmm Good to the last bite! says:
May 10th, 2006 at 2:51 am
This chef really knows how to BANG out nice piece of fish! Though I have to wonder what MARKET he gets it from?? Is it QUALITY FISH or FARM RAISED, like the Wilson farm?
carey says:
May 13th, 2006 at 12:08 pm
Even with a few haters out there, the truth is: Maximilians has indisputibly good food. I ate there last night and I don’t think there is a bad thing on the menu. My favorites are the salads, apps and deserts. Little things count at Maximilian, like the quality of the bread or the coffee they serve. The presentation of dishes and the seasoning are all spot on. Even the atmosphere, which has been their weak point, seems to be improving. The bottom line for me, is this, the food and it is quite delicious.
MaxMillion says:
May 20th, 2006 at 6:29 pm
^ Thank you for your comments. I honestly don’t get the hostile comments that have been posted here; it’s not as if I have misrepresented this restaurant or anything. I guess it’s just snobbery.
Anyway, I’m going back there tonight for supper after the opening night performance of Leoncavallo’s opera I Pagliacci.
eatsalot says:
May 22nd, 2006 at 11:21 am
Good for you!
One OF THE CREW says:
May 28th, 2006 at 10:32 am
Hey all of u haters out there im one of the crew and I think Maximilians its an outstanding restaurant and by far the best place I’ve ever worked in> And when it comes to The Chef He knows his cooking. So its simple just save ur bad comments and if u are not down w maximillians then u can go down the street to 7/11 and buy yourself a hotdog.. Soo please stop the drama because when it comes to fine dinning the Chef and crew will make it happen..
eatsalot says:
May 30th, 2006 at 2:37 pm
Yeah! So there!
MaxMillion says:
May 30th, 2006 at 6:10 pm
^ lol!
n says:
June 27th, 2006 at 5:20 pm
Excellent food from idiots who work there.
somenewhoknows says:
August 30th, 2006 at 4:26 pm
Maximilians staff is not on vacation…
The restaurant will not reopen…it is gone forever.
Maria says:
October 12th, 2006 at 6:46 pm
The chef at this restaurant IS abusive and rude, a good chef but nontheless, an aXX hole.
Also, the place closed abruptly with no regard for it’s employees, the owner also being incredibly unfair and also an aXXhole.
someonewhoknows says:
October 20th, 2006 at 9:28 am
You must be an ex-employee or know the chef personally as I do. I agree, he is an aXXhole. A good chef, but an aXXhole both personally and professionally.
carol g. says:
January 30th, 2007 at 7:28 pm
I bought two gift certificates for friends and clients one day and the next week they were gone! How embarrasing! I would really love to know the truth as to whether or not they are gone! Does anyone know? I did enjoy the restaurant!
MaxMillion says:
January 30th, 2007 at 8:56 pm
^ Well, the message on their answering machine still implies they are all “on vacation”, but I’m pretty sure this restaurant is gone for good.
Apparently the (real estate mogul) owner was real arsehole and gave everyone barely any notice of closure. Such as one day’s warning.
Nice.
I am truly sorry to learn that you got burned so badly. I expect you wouldn’t have given out any certificates if you didn’t enjoy the food and your experience there.
I certainly did.
someonewhoknows says:
February 2nd, 2007 at 11:49 am
The restaurant is gone for good…
The chef has been at Vibrato for almost 5 months now. It’s a shame they won’t tell the truth…
Maria says:
March 29th, 2007 at 7:44 pm
To the person who bought the gift certificate….try calling Mr. Joseph Hurley. He is the owner of the land and the restaurant. He has an office there on the site. It’s very unprofessional of him. I am one who knows what happened. He closed the place down with NO notice and NO compensation for the employees….out of the blue. Maybe you can call 411 to get the number of Hurley in North Hollywood to try and get your money back?