SoCal’s Japanese sushi chef shortage
Wednesday, January 11, 2006 14:07
I was busted by my dining companion a few weeks ago for trying to drop some rusty nihongo on a Korean sushi chef. Somehow our drunken conversation swerved onto the topic of authentic Japanese sushi versus California sushi and then by extension we wandered into a dopey debate about Japanese versus non-Japanese sushi chefs. I’d like to thank Sapporo for the assistance.
Meantime, the Daily Bulletin actually did some authentic reporting on the topic and come up with some interesting information.
Andy Matsuda, founder of Sushi Chef Institute in Los Angeles, said about 70 percent of Japanese restaurants in Southern California are owned by non-Japanese immigrants — mostly with Korean, Chinese, Thai and Filipino backgrounds.
According to reporter Wendy Leung’s findings, the percentage of non-Japanese sushi chefs in SoCal is only expected to grow:
Over the past ten years the Japanese-Americans population in California dropped 8 percent. Meanwhile, the Chinese, Korean, Vietnamese and Filipino communities grew dramatically.
Leung also talks to Mexican sushi chefs and notes that in a sushi chef competition sponsored by the Japanese Restaurant Association of Southern California, winners in the past two years were of Mexican and Portuguese descent.
Check out the story.
[update] EH just sent me The Prejudice Map. It’s a semi-relevant, highly recommended read. i.e., Ethiopians = “big eyes, rocksteady records” Link
Kristy says:
January 11th, 2006 at 4:47 pm
Very interesting, indeed! Hmm…as a fourth gen JA, I sometimes wonder if there will be some fifth gen JAs in my family. Many of my relatives are now multiracial. :)
Mmm…sushi…is it dinner time already?
SoCalorie says:
January 11th, 2006 at 6:07 pm
See? SoCal needs you. Interestingly the story did not touch on gender. When have any of us ever had a woman sushi chef?
MaxMillion says:
January 11th, 2006 at 7:05 pm
Katsu-ya’s (Valley) have excellent female sushi chefs, also there’s Azami (on Melrose), of course.
Great story — love the beer influence!
SoCalorie says:
January 12th, 2006 at 11:10 am
Kristy - Just read your post in memory of Tomematsu and Fujio. It’s lovely.
Marisa says:
January 19th, 2006 at 9:00 am
I’m so glad the issue of female and non Japanese sushi chefs is being addressed. People too often assume sushi chef equals Japanese male. How about just judging the quality of the sushi rather than the face who makes it?
Jonah says:
January 19th, 2006 at 9:50 am
Sushi Senju on Santa Monica and Yale had a young female sushi chef for a while. Senju is closed now and looks like it is going to open under a different name.
Marisa - you hit the nail on the head, there is an automatic assumption that good sushi chefs are Japanese male. I wonder how many people are disappointed when they see that their chef does not fit that mold.
hiromi says:
March 14th, 2006 at 12:33 am
Perfonally I feel more comfortable that my sushi to be made by an experienced Japanese male chef because they definatelly taste better. I feel more comfortable that they know how to deal raw fish correctly.
I think it is not either gender nor racial issue but the practice and experience that count. Dealing raw fish needs EXPERIENCE. Otherwise it is too dangerous!!! Hope all the sushi chefs in LA have basic understanding at least so their customers will not have food poisoning!