la.foodblogging

Fatburger.

I’ll say it again, Fatburger. The Last Great Hamburger Stand.

I sparked velvety dissention a while ago by soliciting people for their favorite burger joint, not a national chain. Of course, I violated my own criteria by throwing down for Fatburger, reasoning that even though they are growing through many states, and now even have an East Coast presence, they were still limited in overall markets.

Saying that my favorite burger is Fatburger, by implication, means In ‘N’ Out is not my favorite burger. This is frightening heresy to someone from Southern California, but I’m not from Southern California. Yancey Lovie opened the first Mr. Fatburger on the corner of Western and Jefferson in 1952. It has been an institution in LA since then, but honestly obscured by the reputation of In ‘N’ Out.

In a time where internal politics threatens to charbroil the good name of In ‘N’ Out, and the struggle over whether to extend the franchise beyond its cloistered borders, in 1986 Fatburger had already adopted a Machiavelian doctrine of expansion.

Fatburger’s manifest destiny has not sullied nor faded the quality of their burgers, at least not the original locations dotting Los Angeles like yellow pushpins. I haven’t eaten at any of the locations outside of California. Couple to that Magic Johnson’s policy of investing back into the South Central community, proving there is a great deal of profit to be made by investing in lower income areas. Yet, other high profile entertainers are also quietly looking into franchising up and down the East Coast.

While In ‘N’ Out strives for historical purity by not changing its menu, there is a secret menu of modifications that every Californian knows. Its sort of an inside joke to play on the tourists that will never know to order a double-double animal style. Fatburger’s only not-well-kept-secret is you can order it grilled or char-broiled.

Fatburger also has its own tradition known as the Triple Kingburger Challenge. Anyone who finishes a triple Kingburger (1 1/2 pounds) within six minutes wins a T-shirt, free meals for the week and their picture on the Triple Kingburger Challenge Wall of Fame.

Another important distinction is the toppings offered by Fatburger. Of course, I’m talking about the fried egg and chili. Tommy’s may be known for the most widely proliferated chiliburger in LA, but it is also reviled as the worst. In fact, the chili at most burger places leaves much to be desired. Fatburger’s chili is rich, spicy and dense with flavor.

That translates to the chili cheese fries also. Fatburger gets it right every time: they do not drown your food in the chili, after all, it is the meat you want to taste, otherwise you would just buy a bowl of chili. They confidently ration all condiments in perfect portion, so nothing ever overpowers anything else. In many burger chains, all the flavors are competing against each other for dominance of your tastebuds.

There are just so many unique qualities that separates this patty of meat slapped between a bun from all the other chains, but the quality is almost intangible. Everybody offers lettuce, tomato, mustard, pickles, onions.

It’s the atmosphere. It’s the fresh ice cream used in the dreamy shakes. The lemonade swirling through the plastic lemonade machine. Fresh, never frozen, meat. The shaker of salt they sprinkle on the patties while they’re cooking. The fries at absolutely trounce In ‘N’ Out fries.

And their complete lack of advertising. I’ve lived in LA for eight years. Unless I’m blind and/or deaf, I’ve never heard an ad for Fatburger.

So, Fatburger vs. In ‘N’ Out. In ‘N’ Out is clearly dominant, and I started to ask myself why. I’ve eaten both in the same day to make a comparison, and I never got that turned on about the In ‘N’ Out burger. What could have catapulted In ‘N’ Out over Fatburger, a clearly superior product.

I’m going to play the race card. It is my assertion that because Fatburger was located in predominantly African American communities, owned and operated by a black woman, it didn’t get as widespread exposure as In ‘N’ Out did until recent years.

But, it’s really not a race deal, it’s about location. Whites simply weren’t exposed to a Fatburger in their neighborhoods until the 80’s. Blacks had been savoring Fatburger since 1952, hoping, I’m sure, to keep the secret to themselves. All good things eventually get out and expand, and that’s exactly what happened with Fatburger.

How did a white guy from the East Coast learn about Fatburger before he even got to LA?

No helicopter looking for a murder,
Two in the morning got the Fatburger,
Even saw the lights of the Goodyear Blimp
And it read ‘Ice Cube’s a pimp’

Don’t get me wrong. I don’t dislike In ‘N’ Out, I just don’t have that clingy nostalgia that clouds my judgment in these matters. For that, I have White Castle.

By Zteve (see more of his posts). You can find more of Zteve's writing at his own website Gastrologica