la.foodblogging

The greatest rivalry since Pat’s and Geno’s cheesteaks in Philly is the fistfight between Cole’s PE Buffet and Philippe’s. Each claim to be the inventor of the French Dip. What is not in dispute is the city in which it was invented: Los Angeles. Everything else becomes fuzzy after that.

Cole’s PE Buffet is the oldest continually running restaurant in Los Angeles, established in 1908. Cole’s claims to have created the french dip sandwich sometime around it’s founding.

Philippe’s Original was also established in 1908, and claims to have invented the sandwich in 1918.

So, with neither historically resolved to anyone’s satisfaction, and that nothing is ever incredibly impactful to the population of LA, you are free to believe with whomever you side.

The two restaurants are as distinctly different as Mexican Wrestling is from cardiovascular surgery. Cole’s is a downhome bar and restaurant occupying a dank (read: historical) space under the old transit terminal. It has a loyal following of ancient salty dogs that still treat this place as their neighborhood bar, although no human being willingly lives in that part of town.

Philippes is just on the outskirts of downtown, near Union Station and Olvera St. It is easily the more popular of the two owing to its reputation, ease of parking, and proximity to The Olvera Tourist Trap.

I only have pictures from Philippes and I have to say Philippes edges out Cole’s for quality of meat, but Cole’s slips ahead of them in terms of flavor. Essentially, the quality of both sandwiches are similar, so on any given day it comes down to minute details.

However, there is a slight tussle between the two, in a pro-con way. Pro for Cole’s is personable service and ordering. It is set up old-style cafeteria, so you take a tray and slide it down the rails and tell the guy what you want as you proceed down the line. Philippes corrals everyone in several different undefined groups heretofore referred to as “lines,” making for a very confusing, very long wait for your food.

It’s time to update, Philippes. I understand proprietors of historical landmarks want to keep everything exactly as it was, but let’s face it, you have indoor plumbing, you have electricity and satellite, put in some rails to define the lines better.

Also, it wouldn’t kill both establishments to give us some jus upon request. The dip and double-dip are nice options, but if I want a cup of jus, just give it to me. The adherence to ancient rules and being jus nazis is silly.

Overall, Cole’s has all the charm, hands down. I get a greater sense of history, especially since the owner took us for a tour when he saw we had some interest in the place. It is still a family run business, and the same family, in fact. There are some great stained glass fixtures in a few unused back rooms that really captured the feel of what it might have been like.

Give both a shot, it is really best among equals, but if you can find parking close to Cole’s, try that first. Less crowded, more variety and seemingly more history.

Cole’s
118 East 6th Street
Los Angeles, California, 90014
Historic Core District

Philippe’s (Philippe The Original)
1001 N. Alameda St. Los Angeles CA. 90012
Near Olvera Street, across from Union Station

By Zteve (see more of his posts). You can find more of Zteve's writing at his own website Gastrologica