Deathmatch: Cole’s PE Buffet vs. Philippe’s
Tuesday, May 23, 2006 13:16
The greatest rivalry since Pat’s and Geno’s cheesteaks in Philly is the fistfight between Cole’s PE Buffet and Philippe’s. Each claim to be the inventor of the French Dip. What is not in dispute is the city in which it was invented: Los Angeles. Everything else becomes fuzzy after that.
Cole’s PE Buffet is the oldest continually running restaurant in Los Angeles, established in 1908. Cole’s claims to have created the french dip sandwich sometime around it’s founding.
Philippe’s Original was also established in 1908, and claims to have invented the sandwich in 1918.
So, with neither historically resolved to anyone’s satisfaction, and that nothing is ever incredibly impactful to the population of LA, you are free to believe with whomever you side.
The two restaurants are as distinctly different as Mexican Wrestling is from cardiovascular surgery. Cole’s is a downhome bar and restaurant occupying a dank (read: historical) space under the old transit terminal. It has a loyal following of ancient salty dogs that still treat this place as their neighborhood bar, although no human being willingly lives in that part of town.
Philippes is just on the outskirts of downtown, near Union Station and Olvera St. It is easily the more popular of the two owing to its reputation, ease of parking, and proximity to The Olvera Tourist Trap.
I only have pictures from Philippes and I have to say Philippes edges out Cole’s for quality of meat, but Cole’s slips ahead of them in terms of flavor. Essentially, the quality of both sandwiches are similar, so on any given day it comes down to minute details.
However, there is a slight tussle between the two, in a pro-con way. Pro for Cole’s is personable service and ordering. It is set up old-style cafeteria, so you take a tray and slide it down the rails and tell the guy what you want as you proceed down the line. Philippes corrals everyone in several different undefined groups heretofore referred to as “lines,” making for a very confusing, very long wait for your food.
It’s time to update, Philippes. I understand proprietors of historical landmarks want to keep everything exactly as it was, but let’s face it, you have indoor plumbing, you have electricity and satellite, put in some rails to define the lines better.
Also, it wouldn’t kill both establishments to give us some jus upon request. The dip and double-dip are nice options, but if I want a cup of jus, just give it to me. The adherence to ancient rules and being jus nazis is silly.
Overall, Cole’s has all the charm, hands down. I get a greater sense of history, especially since the owner took us for a tour when he saw we had some interest in the place. It is still a family run business, and the same family, in fact. There are some great stained glass fixtures in a few unused back rooms that really captured the feel of what it might have been like.
Give both a shot, it is really best among equals, but if you can find parking close to Cole’s, try that first. Less crowded, more variety and seemingly more history.
Cole’s
118 East 6th Street
Los Angeles, California, 90014
Historic Core District
Philippe’s (Philippe The Original)
1001 N. Alameda St. Los Angeles CA. 90012
Near Olvera Street, across from Union Station
By Zteve (see more of his posts). You can find more of Zteve's writing at his own website Gastrologica
Kim Cooper says:
May 23rd, 2006 at 2:35 pm
Philippe’s HAS made some changes, just not highly functional ones. In the past couple of years they added awnings to the outside of the building, and got rid of the beautiful old hand-painted wall menu. Feh!
MaxMillion says:
May 24th, 2006 at 10:32 am
I think those b&w pix are a very cool touch.
Eddie Lin says:
May 24th, 2006 at 8:57 pm
“Jus nazis.” Awesome.
Jonah says:
May 25th, 2006 at 7:32 am
There was a period when I was growing up that I would automatically order the french dip if it was on the menu. Sadly, I have never been to Cole’s or Philippe’s. It’s time to rekindle my flame for the f’dip…
Zteve says:
May 25th, 2006 at 9:23 am
Hey Eddie, I was wondering if someone would get that.
MaxMillion says:
May 25th, 2006 at 4:55 pm
^ I got it! (It sounds ridicurous.)
Zteve says:
May 25th, 2006 at 5:57 pm
Hey Max, that’s a bit of Engrish!
Jeni says:
May 25th, 2006 at 6:09 pm
I’m a COLE’S woman. MMMMM!
MaxMillion says:
May 26th, 2006 at 10:15 am
Zteve, it’s also another Seinfeld ref (natch)
Zteve says:
May 26th, 2006 at 11:27 am
Ahhh. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a full episode, but I know the soup nazi ref. Just like our sushi nazi at Sushi Nozawa.
MaxMillion says:
May 26th, 2006 at 9:28 pm
^ I know, bless his little cotton sox… “No sushi for YOU!”
Evan says:
May 27th, 2006 at 10:26 am
I was raised by a Philippe’s family, so I’ve never been to Cole’s. I’ve thought about it, but deep down it seems like betraying a member of my family…can’t do it.
Lines at Philippe’s could be nice, but then they’d lose those tables there.
Tim McGarry says:
May 27th, 2006 at 9:19 pm
Have been to both, prefer Phillipe’s. Brighter, cheerier, has the great railroad stuff, and — above all — the hot mustard!
Some beautiful women at Cole’s, though.
celia says:
June 5th, 2006 at 1:38 pm
They cut their meat a little thicker at Cole’s they always ask me if I’d like some au jus, they have Chimay on tap, and I See Hawks in L.A. play there regularly, so I’m a Cole’s woman.
There is definitely more atmosphere at Cole’s but your remark that “no human being willingly lives in that part of town” is extremely dated. Check out the “regulars” section of the Cole’s website, many of whom live within stumbling distance and for a good number of years, too.
celia says:
June 5th, 2006 at 1:39 pm
Oh yeah, I almost forgot. The unofficial tag line - Cole’s, where the men are slow and the women are fast.
Bobak says:
June 8th, 2006 at 1:28 pm
Nice article.
Cole’s area is become more desireable to the loft-a-nistas. In fact it appears the old P.E. Building itself is being turned into high end lofts. Times they are a changing. Too bad parking will still be a nightmare compared to Philippe’s (which is why I usually go to the latter). Love the Philippe’s mustard to –I buy some when I return to LA on vacations.
Zteve says:
June 9th, 2006 at 6:29 pm
amended: cole’s is up and coming for housing. check out the chic lofts of downtown and jtown.
Martin says:
June 15th, 2006 at 12:59 pm
Went to Cole’s last night for the first time. Although the pork roast sandwich (and my wife’s beef brisket with horseradish) were very good, I can’t say that the place was all that nice….
If you like divey bars with torn-up vinyl seats, old-timey signs and photos on the wall, along with what looks like professional drinkers at the bar (not the good kind) — and this passes for “character” with you, then you will like the place.
I prefer the orchestrated chaos of Philippe’s cleanliness and activity to the (legitimate) mustiness of Cole’s, even if the place is packed solid before a Dodgers game.
However, I think Cole’s sandwiches are a bit better. I hesitate to recall exactly the jus vs jus aspect, but the meat to me seemed better prepared at Cole’s. In fact, the food prep section of the restaurant was the nicest part of the whole place.
As for live shows, I went to the website mentioned by Celia but could not see any listings of upcoming events. Again, I think this appeals to pubbies more than foodies.
Maybe it has something to do with eating above or below ground?
Martin says:
June 15th, 2006 at 1:00 pm
Clarification: Phillippe’s gets packed before a Dodgers game.
sheggaw says:
August 31st, 2007 at 1:37 pm
I have never been to Cole’s but what about the 10c. coffee and 60 c. Ice Tea or Lemonade & the hot mustard at Phillippe’s? That beats going anywhere for the same food. Yes, the line can be refined,however, it is not the line that is the main obstacle, It is the fact that all the transaction has to go through a SINGLE person! Why in the world do they have to do that? all 6 or 7 of the food servers will have to wait in line themselves to do the transaction….