la.foodblogging

Babita Mexicuisine
1823 S. San Gabriel Blvd., San Gabriel 91776
(626) 288-7265
$20-$50 per person

Lunch: Tu-F 11:30 am – 2:30 pm
Dinner: Su, Tu-Th 5:30 pm – 9:00 pm; F-Sa 5:30 pm – 10:00 pm

Bottom Line: Think good Mexican food is all tacos from the side of a truck? Think again. And again. And again.

On a slow night at Babita, chef Roberto Berrelleza glides out of the kitchen, clad in chef’s whites, to bring you a main course. “When I put this in oven,� he proclaims, sliding a towering plate of braised pork shank onto the table, “it was two and a half pounds!�

After his sixteen years as a maitre d’ at some of the finest restaurants in L.A., I guess old habits die hard – even when you’re now in the kitchen.

Situated at the quiet corner of San Gabriel Boulevard and Norwood Place with no parking and nary a street light to keep it lit, Babita seems almost like any other house on the block; eating here is less like dining at a restaurant as much as being invited into Berrelleza’s house for a family meal.

The intimate, ten-table dining room is in the capable hands of Berrelleza’s wife and their daughter, Elba (their other daughter is the restaurant’s namesake). From your first bite of the endlessly crisp house-made tortilla chips and salsa to your last, lingering moment in a luxurious flan, Elba is all smiles, making you feel comfortable, unrushed, and, well – right at home.

The stars of the starters are undoubtedly the tangy ceviches, ranging from a gentle Sope Witusi with snapper, beans, and julienned carrots, to a spirited cilantro margarita sorbet served with snapper and caviar. While these are not all successful marriages (the tequila tends to overpower the delicate fish flavor), in just one bite you will know that you have found something special.

Signature main courses like the tender barbacoa beef cheeks (slow-braised in its own juices until the meat flakes off with but a touch of a fork) and the fiery, habanero-studded shrimp Topolobampo (sautéed with citrus and white wine) are a testament to Berrelleza’s creativity; the food is at once inventive and continental, yet always distinctly Mexican. For instance, sautéed scallops are served with a white wine sauce and Mexican spices, while piping hot, hand-made corn tortillas accompany most main courses.

I keep going back because it keeps me guessing. Whether it is the sumptuous daily special or the next intriguing menu item, I always learn something new about the ingredients or the authentic flavors I’ve never tasted before. Next time, it’ll be chiles en nogata and the halibut with huitlacoche.

But first I’ll finish these leftovers from last night’s trip.

sneakypeteiii is a doctoral student in Chemistry at Caltech. He has been eating since he was a child, and reckons himself quite good at it. (see more of his posts).