la.foodblogging

I have a very close friend who loves good food and, equally, a great value. Which means his dining choices are measured both by the quality of the food and the relative cost of the meal. He eats at LE PETIT BISTRO (631 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 289-9797, just north of Melrose and south of Santa Monica Blvd.) two or three times a week. He raves about the authentic quality of the French bistro dishes and always mentions the reasonable prices. The fact that he smokes and can puff away on the patio is all to the good for him (but not really). I’ve been eating here since they opened 13 years ago, dutifully visiting the other spinoffs over the years, seven in all. Now the charming South-of-France brothers, George and Robert Lachkar and friend Albert Emkies, are concentrating on the original venue, and at two recent visits I had to agree that it has settled into legendary status. This is as close as you can get to a real Parisian bistro without flying Air France and cabbing to Montparnasse, down to the big red awnings covering the sidewalk patio, the dining room clad in rich wood, walls covered with colorful Toulouse-Lautrec posters and Renoir-esque murals. However, our French waiter, Thierry Crozier, is far more charming than his usual Gallic counterpart.

There is a story, probably apocryphal, about the origin of the word bistro, that the Cossack soldiers who marched on Paris in 1815 would shout “bistro,� their word for quick, in bars when they wanted service. I’m reminded of a quote from Patricia Wells’ wonderful book, Bistro Cooking: “As long as man consumes platters of pommes frites and thick pan-fried steaks, while hoisting stout round glasses filled with cheap red wine, the homey welcoming neighborhood restaurant will continue to warm our souls with images of copious, hearty, no-nonsense meals and good times among friends.� When I am fortunate enough to find myself in Paris, I head not only for the chi-chi three star temp l e s o f g a s t r o n o m i c indulgence but also for the great bistro of my dreams, Chez Ami Louis, with its grilled game and huge slabs of foie gras. The food here does not disturb the illusion… excellent salads, garlicky escargot de Bourgogne ($8.50 a half dozen, in a sizzling dish, out of the shell), grilled entrecote (similar to rib eye, $21.95 with black pepper, add $3.50 for sautéed mushrooms) with pommes frites, crispy roast chicken with herbs de Provence ($11.95) and marvelous charbroiled Baby Lamb Chops ($18.50) in a whole-grain mustard sauce with pommes frites. Last night we finished with a chocolate soufflé ($8.50)!) ordered early on, and it was deeply satisfying, with its crème anglais, chocolate sauce and whipped cream. No soufflé mix this, the real thing. I have been complaining about the onion soup gratinee at my favorite Saturday luncheon spot, so I had to sample the soup here ($6.95) and it was magnificent, lots of Gruyere and a rich beef broth. The special menu (which has been the same every time I’ve been here) featured a fabulous starter, imported French herrings ($9.50) which had been marinated and were served with warm potatoes and scallions. Could make a meal of this. They have an excellent Goat Cheese Crostini ($8.95) with mixed greens, dried pears and a hazelnut dressing…but pass on the Baked Brie en Croute ($9.) with its champagne sauce, too gloppy. The spicy Merguez Moroccan sausage ($8.50) had a bite, but I do love the Shrimp Picante ($8.95), sautéed with a spicy sauce which is addictive. Not yet had the Blue Crab Cakes ($9.25) but will get to it. Skip the two pastas; one doesn’t go to a great French bistro for pasta.

Fred Levinson raves about the Baked Lamb Shank ($16.95), cooked by Chef Hugo Balladres for long hours in a red wine sauce and served with couscous and carrots. Last night, in mid-summer, I decided to go for a wintery dish, the Cassoulet Toulousain ($24.50) knowing that I could take most of it home for lunch the next day. But the baked Navy beans were so rich and tempting I downed them all, picking at the duck leg confit and lamb shank, skipping the sausage.Then I regretted not ordering the Crispy Sweetbreads ($24.95) which Thierry said were fabulous, served over a wild mushroom risotto with lemon caper sauce. Am thinking about going back tonight for them! Most expensive item on the menu was a panroasted Baramundi ($25.95), an Australian ‘sea bass’ (not really, but delicious) which was so slathered with Provencal sauce you lost much of the flavor of the fish. Better choice was the Wild King Salmon ($21.95), sauteed with pink pepper (!) over a hash of greens and potatoes in chardonnay sauce. When the next table received their Duck à l’Orange ($22.50), we all shook our heads and said we should have ordered that! Sometimes the old standbys are the best. The chef is trying to show he is au c o u r a n t b y e v e n offering a Mongolian Pork Chop ($21.50), with mashed potatoes, red cabbage and Thai mustard sauce. Best bet: as always, the Onglet ($22.95), the hanger steak, which traditionally French butchers brought home for their own dinner, since a cow only has one. Chewy, flavorful. Have the shallot sauce on the side. I have a memory of a Calves Liver ($13.95) which was served almost rare enough for me, crispy but pink. LE PETIT BISTRO has an intensely loyal following both French-speaking and local, who appreciate the real thing, the well-prepared and reasonable food, the smoking on the terrace, the patient waiters and smiling owners. My friend has convinced me to add this to my regular route; I’ll drink to that! Au Bonne Chance! They are open late seven nights a week, often ‘til midnight, and now are open for lunch Monday through Friday with a slightly smaller menu.

Le Petit Bistro
631 N. La Cienega, West Hollywood.
(310) 289-9797.
Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm for lunch and 5:30-11pm for dinner. Saturday 5:30-11:30pm, Sunday 5-11:30pm