Il Grano: “Nouveau Neapolitan”
Thursday, December 14, 2006 15:20
I was fairly excited to find out I would be dining at Il Grano as part of my husband’s company holiday dinner. Dining out on someone else’s dime when that “someone” is a large corporation is the best. I can order things I wouldn’t normally order on my measly paycheck but I don’t feel as guilty as I would if a person was shelling out for me. I was not quite bold enough to order the $50 white truffle pizza, but I did do pretty well for myself, I think.
Our service began with a speech to the table by the maitre d’. He was really friendly, but honestly I could have done without the speech. It was a little overlong and not so suavely delivered. It was a speech of the “let me tell you how this restaurant works” variety which is sometimes necessary, but in this case, not needed. If I’m going to have to use some contraptions in my meal, or go through some unusual ritual in the course of eating the chef’s food, then yeah, I’d like some help. But here, the speech boiled down to “the crudo is really good, there’s the chef over there talking to those people, and we use organic. cruelty-free ingredients.”
Basically, it was information that, if I cared at all about that kind of stuff (which I do) I could glean it from the menu. However, the guy was really nice and welcoming so it wasn’t annoying or anything, just a little extraneous.
The speech did, however, work to get some of us to order the crudo ($21), which as you can see, was a lovely assortment of sea creatures in various forms of rawness. I am not a raw fish eater. I have some kind of weird uvula or other throat area that is extremely sensitive to texture and I have a hard time with the smooth slipperiness that is raw seafood. However, no one wanted the oyster, and I’m always willing to try stuff, even if it hasn’t worked for me before so I swallowed that little guy down. It was pretty good. It tasted the way it was supposed to, I imagine, which was like the ocean.
For my appetizer, I was drawn in by two words: “Holiday” and “fra Mani” (okay, three words). They had some “traditional holiday appetizer dishes,” one of which was Tagliata del Contadino: Paul Bertolla’s ‘fra Mani’ Salumi Board with Grilled Ciabatta ($16). fra Mani is a Berkeley-based company founded by Paul Bertolli, a chef, which makes handcrafted salumi. This was totally delicious, although I would have preferred more of a variety in the meats. All were fairly strong and salty, and maybe a milder one would have provided a nicer balance.
To drink with my appetizer, I had a glass of Brunello di Montalcino, although I can’t remember the vintage or name. I chose it for the sole fact that I have been reading a bit about the Abruzzo region of Italy and wanted some wine from there, but they didn’t have Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, and the Brunello di Montalcino was the closest thing that sounded kind of like it. Yep, that’s really how I pick my wine. Through a complicated stream of consciousness process and using dream logic. And you know what? It totally works for me.
For main course I ordered the branzino ($30), because when I see branzino on the menu, I am going to order it. Sea bass is my favorite fish, and this preparation, baked whole in salt, is my favorite preparation. This did not beat my all-time favorite branzino, from Angelini Osteria, but it came close. It was really moist because of the salt it was baked in and very mild in flavor, not at all fishy.
To drink with this I ordered a glass of chablis. The wine menu had gone away and when I went to order I could only remember two of their white wines: A California chardonnay and the chablis. I’m not a fan of California chardonnay so I went to the chablis. To me, chablis is what you get at the snack bar at sporting events, but I just happened to read an article about quality chablis and since I knew Il Grano was not serving jug wine, I decided to go for it. It was fine, but unfortunately I don’t have the expertise to give accomplished tasting notes.
For dessert I went with a chestnut souffle that came with ginger gelato and a totally cute little cookie in the shape of a star (I know, I’m such a girl). I also had some sort of super secret sweet red wine that the server recommended to me, but I do not know what it was, because it wasn’t on the menu. Sorry, that’s what you get when I don’t get paid for this. The souffle was warm, light, and eggy with a hint of spice. If you like sweet desserts, then this probably wouldn’t be your thing but if you don’t have a sweet tooth, then this is a great way to end a meal.
I had an overall good experience here and would definitely go back. There was a five course tasting menu at $65 p.p. which I would love to try, especially since they are accomodating to all tastes and dietary quirks. The also offer vegetarian/vegan tasting menus for $45. I have read some negative mentions about the service here, but I thought our waiter was great and I was never left hanging for anything I wanted. Although to be frank, I didn’t particularly notice whether service was slow or not since it was a group dinner with lots of conversation. But the service was certainly good enough that I didn’t experience any noticable lulls in the action.
11359 Santa Monica Blvd (Cross Street: Corinth Avenue)
Los Angeles, CA 90025
(877) 485-0443
By KT (see more of her posts). You can find more of KT's writing at her own website Gastronomy 101.
Jonah says:
December 14th, 2006 at 3:50 pm
We had a great anniversary dinner here a couple years ago. I think what is surprising about Il Grano is just how well they do seafood. I never think “Italian” when I’m looking for fish, but Il Grano really gets it right.
Also, La Bottega, the small cafe attached to Il Grano is a great place to catch a quick meal. I think that the two places share a kitchen.
MaxMillion says:
December 14th, 2006 at 10:14 pm
I really enjoyed your well-written report. It makes me wanna try this place. Thanks!
Where is it located?
KT says:
December 14th, 2006 at 10:22 pm
Thanks for reminding me! I knew I was forgetting something. I put the contact info on the post.
Chubbypanda says:
December 15th, 2006 at 10:59 pm
Hi KT!
Is the size of that crudo standard? It looks kinda paltry compared to what you normally get for $21 at a decent sushi bar.
I’m a bad panda. That branzino sounds mouthwateringly good.
- Chubbypanda
KT says:
December 15th, 2006 at 11:29 pm
Hi! I have no idea about the relative size … I don’t have a lot of experience with crudo. All the appetizers (except my salumi) came on that same plate, though so I guess that’s the restaurant’s standard appetizer size. And there may be a premium charged since they feel they are “known” for the crudo.
There’s no doubt this is an expensive restaurant, but the ingredients are definitely top-notch, and it was very nice for a special occasion dinner.
terrence says:
December 30th, 2006 at 6:29 am
just a small point — the crosstreet is purdue, not corinth, and there’s easy parking behind this amazing restaurant. the reason il grano thrives is the great work of chef sal — most of his customers are regulars who have been coming there for years and years. and al bottega is also a wonderful experience.
me says:
January 3rd, 2007 at 12:09 pm
“Through a complicated stream of consciousness process and using dream logic.”>
This is my all time favorite phrase for 2006… I shall use it many times in 2007.
We got the maitre d’ speech at Michael Mina’s in SF…. We really needed it, for the sorta of confusing ‘prix-fixe three-course dinner, selecting from Seasonal and/or Classic’…..
skullie says:
June 27th, 2007 at 1:45 pm
Molto Bene, this resturant is great! Everyone visit Il Grano
skullie says:
June 27th, 2007 at 1:46 pm
It is located in La,Santa Monica.