la.foodblogging

For 29 years, l’Orangerie has been a Los Angeles staple. It has been home to chefs such as Christopher Eme and Ludovic Lefebvre. Now, the very famous l’Orangerie is about to close its doors for good. This is the last week to get a meal in before l’Orangerie goes away on December 31^st.

As tempting as the set menu was, I was not quite sure a 12-course meal was something my stomach could handle. I opted instead for just appetizer, main entree and dessert. Oh yes, and there was a little amuse bouche as well (lentils topped with yogurt and chives). To start, I had l’Orangerie’s signature eggs and caviar set ($39). For anyone who is a caviar connoisseur, the eggs are served with Tsar Nicoulai California Estate Osetra caviar and two slices of toast sticks. The only other time I have enjoyed eggs with caviar was at Melisse, and as wonderful as that was, this dish at l’Orangerie was better.

My entree was the spiny lobster from Santa Barbara with vegetable stew ($67), one of the specials of the evening. Our server highly recommended this one, and with good reason. First, the lobster is not brought out in a dish. A server came over with a bowl and a little black kettle pot. He opened the pot for me, and I was overwhelmed with a delightful aroma that just made my stomach growl, even after the appetizer and two breads. He spooned out the lobster and vegetables and then drizzled the broth left in the pot over the lobster. This was such a perfect dish, and “perfect” is a word I rarely use. The rest of my party had the Wild John Dory Fillets and Roast Lamb Loin with polenta. I did sample those dishes, and while they were quite delicious, too, I think I enjoyed my lobster more. The John Dory was very fresh, and the lamb was quite tender. Seriously, one bite into any of these three dishes, and you’ll understand why l’Orangerie has been around for so long.

We were stuffed by the time the dessert menu came our way, but only because this was our final meal at l’Orangerie, we found just a little space left to split a couple of desserts. We picked the chocolate souffle ($17) and a pear and caramel tart ($16). The souffle was heavenly. Right after it was placed in front of me, the server punctured the center with a knife and then poured some hot chocolate syrup into it. Next he topped it with fresh whipped cream. It was also accompanied by a small scoop of vanilla ice cream. The tart was quite nice, though the pear flavor was minimal due to the heavy emphasis on the caramel. I suppose that is why they served the dish with a couple slices of pear on the side, as well as a scoop of pear ice cream.

I asked our server why on Earth would owners Gerald and Virginie Ferry ever want to close the place down. He figured that after operating l’Orangerie for about 15 years in France, and then 29 years in LA, they wanted to rest. He said they are thinking of traveling for a year or two. Here’s hoping that the Ferry’s will have a well-deserved trip, and that they will consider opening the restaurant up again when they eventually return. Until then, merci beaucoup, bon voyage, et a bientot.

L’Orangerie
903 N. La Cienega Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90069
Tel 310 652 9770
Fax 310 652 8870
www.lorangerie.com

By Pauline (see more of her posts).