The Food Sucks, But Largo Rules

Saturday, March 3, 2007 14:34

Largo
432 Fairfax
Los Angeles, CA
Cross Street: Oakwood

Oh, beloved Largo - what a mixed bag you are. The tables are smashed side by side, the chairs are pretty damn uncomfortable, and the food - well, you’re lucky if it’s warm, isn’t leathery, and is actually what you ordered. Over the years, the less than stellar menu has shrunk to meager status, and what’s left can be lackluster and oogie. Don’t go gettin’ saucy and changing how things are served, either - you’re likely to get a backlash from the chef. The drinks are weak, too - you’d be best to stick to Guinness and skip the mixed variety, even though Ellen the bartender is sweet as cane sugar, she isn’t making a mean martini.

So why on earth do I keep going back?

It’s paradise. All of Largo’s inadequacies somehow add to it’s charm, like a boyfriend you just adore, even though you see the flaws so clearly. Largo gets some of the best comedic and musical talent in the *world* - it’s an ultra-special spot run by a truly classic Irishman named Flannagan that knows how to book and pamper talent. I’ve seen such extraordinary performances here, year after year, that they could serve me sauted tennis shoes, and I wouldn’t much care. It’s all about that stage.

On this particular night, partons dined on Greg Proops hi-lar-ity and Margaret Cho extra-spicy girl power. Bliss. But the food? Oh yeah, that.

Drinks:

Black and Tan - one of the only safe drinks here, it’s smooth and Irish-perfect.
House Merlot - surprisingly spicy and fruity - also a good bet.
Iced tea - average.

Bread:

Plain white french slices with too-hard butter. All-ways.

Entrees:

Twice Baked Honey Chicken
* Flattened and battered chicken breast baked in a honey sauce and served with salad and mashed potatoes.
Wow, this is SO much better than the old days. Which is to say it’s borderline edible. By flattening the chicken, it’s tastes so much more tender and smooth, and while it’s clear the mashers are still the instant variety, at least they were fully cooked and warm this time - improvements!

The damage for 2 drinks, 1 iced tea, and 2 entrees (we both had the chicken) was about $44. Worth every laugh-filled penny.

RESTAURANT REPORT CARD - Largo, visit 500. Or so.

Ambiance - B-
Service - C+
Food (Taste) - C-
Food (Presentation) - C-
Wine/Drinks - C-
Value - C+
Vibe/Energy/Scene - A

Overall Experience - B-

Final word - The grade is inflated because this is such a special place - just know it’s about the talent, and not the food. On that scale alone, Largo is an A+.

By PoetKitty (see more of her posts). You can find more of PoetKitty's writing at her own website OMG Food!

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4 Responses to “The Food Sucks, But Largo Rules”

  1. Taste-Buzz says:

    March 4th, 2007 at 12:33 am

    I especially like the regular performances by Colin Hay and Jill Sobule.

  2. Dr. Alice says:

    March 5th, 2007 at 7:16 am

    Word. I’ve seen great acts at Largo, and don’t regret a single time I’ve gone - but the food, basically, sucks. It wouldn’t be so bad if management didn’t mandate that you order - I forget what the minimum is. $15? $20? Not sure.

  3. Andre Stojkja says:

    March 5th, 2007 at 10:07 pm

    Well, it’s the total experiencve we are after in a place like this. My wife and I go to a place in the valley called Charley O’s. Theyt have possibly the best jazz music in the city. I’m talking every kind of jazz from a trio to the Doc Severinson Big Bank Tonight Show orchestra (under another name). Pretty exciting stuff. But the food?

    Well, the food basically sucks. We order a chicken caesar and are grateful that its cold. But who cares? The vibe, the talent and the total experience is what we are after.

    Wouldn’t it be nice though if…..

    Oh, well

    be grateful for what we’ve got.

    Andre

  4. MaxMillion says:

    March 6th, 2007 at 11:40 am

    ^ Charlie O’s Bar and Grill is a fantastic venue for jazz. There is no cover charge AND it is not compulsory to spend a minimum of $15 per person on food there, as it is at Largo.

    I have enjoyed some world class jazz (Jennifer Leitham’s Trio) for the cost of a glass of pinot grigio.

    Charlie O’s Bar and Grill
    13725 Victory Boulevard
    Van Nuys, CA 91401
    818-994-3058

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