The Food Sucks, But Largo Rules
Saturday, March 3, 2007 14:34Largo
432 Fairfax
Los Angeles, CA
Cross Street: Oakwood
Oh, beloved Largo - what a mixed bag you are. The tables are smashed side by side, the chairs are pretty damn uncomfortable, and the food - well, you’re lucky if it’s warm, isn’t leathery, and is actually what you ordered. Over the years, the less than stellar menu has shrunk to meager status, and what’s left can be lackluster and oogie. Don’t go gettin’ saucy and changing how things are served, either - you’re likely to get a backlash from the chef. The drinks are weak, too - you’d be best to stick to Guinness and skip the mixed variety, even though Ellen the bartender is sweet as cane sugar, she isn’t making a mean martini.
So why on earth do I keep going back?
It’s paradise. All of Largo’s inadequacies somehow add to it’s charm, like a boyfriend you just adore, even though you see the flaws so clearly. Largo gets some of the best comedic and musical talent in the *world* - it’s an ultra-special spot run by a truly classic Irishman named Flannagan that knows how to book and pamper talent. I’ve seen such extraordinary performances here, year after year, that they could serve me sauted tennis shoes, and I wouldn’t much care. It’s all about that stage.
On this particular night, partons dined on Greg Proops hi-lar-ity and Margaret Cho extra-spicy girl power. Bliss. But the food? Oh yeah, that.
Drinks:
Black and Tan - one of the only safe drinks here, it’s smooth and Irish-perfect.
House Merlot - surprisingly spicy and fruity - also a good bet.
Iced tea - average.
Bread:
Plain white french slices with too-hard butter. All-ways.
Entrees:
Twice Baked Honey Chicken
* Flattened and battered chicken breast baked in a honey sauce and served with salad and mashed potatoes.
Wow, this is SO much better than the old days. Which is to say it’s borderline edible. By flattening the chicken, it’s tastes so much more tender and smooth, and while it’s clear the mashers are still the instant variety, at least they were fully cooked and warm this time - improvements!
The damage for 2 drinks, 1 iced tea, and 2 entrees (we both had the chicken) was about $44. Worth every laugh-filled penny.
RESTAURANT REPORT CARD - Largo, visit 500. Or so.
Ambiance - B-
Service - C+
Food (Taste) - C-
Food (Presentation) - C-
Wine/Drinks - C-
Value - C+
Vibe/Energy/Scene - A
Overall Experience - B-
Final word - The grade is inflated because this is such a special place - just know it’s about the talent, and not the food. On that scale alone, Largo is an A+.
By PoetKitty (see more of her posts). You can find more of PoetKitty's writing at her own website OMG Food!
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