la.foodblogging

I’ve been pretty excited about Terroni opening, ever since I saw their menu. Authentic Cafe, which used to be in the same location, was a regular dinner/drinks place for me and the void was noticable once it was closed and the new restaurant was under construction.

Now it’s open, and I have wasted no time evaluating it. What do I think? Well, I’ve eaten there three times now, so I’m thinking that it’s a thumbs up so far.

Atmosphere

Of course the first thing I noticed, the first time I walked in was how incredibly hazardous it is in there if there’s ever an earthquake. I have to get this out of the way as a warning to the phobic. Not only is the room lined with shelves of tchotchkes, but there are several shelves with bunches of wine bottles on them above dining tables, and the bar itself is ruled over by a giant chandelier, hovering menacingly over the bar staff’s heads. Yikes!

But the next thing you notice about the decor is how incredibly homey it is. I was worried before it opened that it would be sparse and modern, or nauseatingly trendy, but it’s …. Italian. It’s basically beige with dark wood shelves and accents and lots of Italian food props, and bottles of wine around. On a high wall, Fellini movies and the like are projected.The kitchen is labeled by a shiny red “Cucina” on the wall, in case all the cooks and ovens and stuff back there weren’t enough to clue you in.

They have both a standard menu, and extensive changing daily specials listed on a chalkboard. Better bring your glasses, because unless you are seated nearby, you won’t be able to read the specials and will have to force your server to make his or her way through a long list.

Service

The service still has its ups and downs, but everyone is friendly, so I trust they will work the kinks out as they go along. The no-reservation system works remarkably well, and I was impressed by the way the hostess was able to search out parties from a crowded bar space and whisk them away to their table, never blinking an eye when bar diners stopped to ask for things like utensils, but running their errands with a smile.

I hear tell there is a sommelier and if there is, he needs to step up his game. Most of our service issues were with wine. The second time dining, a wine order was forgotten. The third, they were out of three things I ordered before I finally had to settle for my fourth choice wine; and then at dessert they poured me a grappa instead of the Moscato I ordered. Huge difference. And kind of a shock when you’re expecting one and get the other.
I’ve had two servers and both were great. The first woman tended to disappear when things got busy, but she was very nice and full of information about the menu. The second man was also nice and very gracious about the problems with the wine.

Food

Most importantly, the food! I’ve been pleased with everything I’ve had there. I would say the portion sizes are medium. On my first trip, between two tiny girls who had eaten little during the day to prepare, we put away two appetizers, a pizza, and two desserts. I’ve also been satisfied with a shared appetizer and a salad, however.

Things I have eaten here:

Funghi Assoluti - baked oyster mushrooms with parmigiano, balsamic vinegar, extra-virgin olive oil, garlic and parsley served on arugula. I have eaten this twice and I highly recommend it. The mushrooms are crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, and have a meaty flavor. They taste almost like fried chicken, but they are mushrooms and they are on a salad, so …. healthy, right?

Calamari alla Griglia: grilled calamari on mixed greens with tomatoes, red onion, and capers. I didn’t like this as much as the funghi assoluti, but I thought it was very good. I’ve never had grilled calamari before, and I liked it a lot, except I thought it made the tentacles too tough.

Insalate Ricchia: arugola, fresh mushrooms, shavings of parmigiano reggiano, lemon, and extra-virgin olive oil. There were two things I loved about this salad: the dressing and the thick shavings of cheese. What I didn’t like were the mushrooms. They were just raw slices of supermarket white mushrooms, which was kind of disappointing. I would have preferred something more flavorful.

Pizze San Giorgio: tomato, mozzarella, spicy calabrese salame, fresh mushrooms. When they say spicy, they are NOT kidding. That salame is hot. But this was a really good pizza. I cut the spiciness of the salame with lots of parmesan and I could handle it. The pizzas are a great size for sharing, but one person could probably manage it all if you didn’t eat too much else. I am not too thrilled with the authentic “cut it yourself” policy. I suggest giving the table a pizza cutter if they are going to keep it up, because the small serrated knife we were given made for a hazardous cutting experience where my pizza threatened to fly right off the plate several times.

I have also had some specials that weren’t on the regular menu:

Polpo con Olive: This was a sauteed octopus dish with olives and potatoes and some greens. It is not the best octopus I have ever had in my life, and the pieces weren’t cooked evenly, so some were great and others a little tough. But overall, I liked this dish.

Prosciutto Pizza: I don’t remember the official name, but this was a pizza with prosciutto, basil, and taleggio. It was good, but I think after havig the super spicy pizza the first time, it was kind of bland in comparison.

And of course desserts:

I have tried the Lemon Sorbetto, and the Creme Caramel with milk. The lemon sorbetto came inside an actual lemon peel, Euro-style and was every bit as tart and light as you would want after a carb-heavy meal. The Creme Caramel was delicious. I usually don’t go for dishes of this texture, but the flavor was good and it melted in your mouth so that the texture wasn’t a problem for me.

Overall, I would say it’s a keeper, especially if they get service running smoothly. It’s low-key and casual, although like many of the newer restaurants, if you want somewhere quiet, do not go here. It’s incredibly loud when it’s full. I will admit that it’s the poor man’s Pizzeria Mozza, but we can’t all go to Mozza all the time, so it’s nice to have a fallback option.

Terroni
7605 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 954-0300

By KT (see more of her posts). You can find more of KT's writing at her own website Gastronomy 101.