Cocktails

Comme Ci, Comme Ca

When it’s pouring rain outside, and you have a gift card in your wallet with $$ still left on it, how can you resist the temptation of a cozy French bistro and onion soup? The other night Comme Ca was calling our names in a sexy French accent and the promise of hot comfort food. I’m going to get the important part of this review out of the way at the beginning. The warnings. If you are not daunted by them, then you can read the rest.

WARNING!

1. We were under the impression that there were a number of tables set aside for walk-ins. At least on the night we went, this was not so. The whole place was practically empty when we arrived, but we were told it was a “full house” and we could only sit at the bar. Luckily for us, the bar is our favorite place to sit! But if you need a chair with a back, and table space, make a reservation. Also, if you want to sit ANYWHERE, get there early. We went just after 6:00 and got the last two bar spots.

2. Do not expect actual French bistro prices. This place is EXPENSIVE (for what you are getting). Cocktails = $14. My butter lettuce salad with vinaigrette, carrots and radish was $9, as was the onion soup, pommes frites are $7, entrees are $25-$28. It helps if you have a gift card! The wine list is good though, in that it provides wines of all prices from the $20 range to the $100 range, so everyone can partake.

Do you still want to check it out? Think your pocketbook can handle it? Think you can get a reservation? Then read on …….

First of all, I highly recommend sitting at the bar. The bartenders, Tim and Joel, are well-dressed, handsome, and practice bartending in the Gary Regan/Audrey Sanders style - they can make you anything and make it well, with the best ingredients. I also recommend the “Dealer’s Choice,” where you tell the guys what you like in the way of booze, and they will come up with a drink to make for you.

I didn’t do it, because I was excited to be able to order an Aviation and know it would be made right, but I still got an education, as I learned that the drink I so enjoy is actually an Aviation NUMBER TWO. He also made me an Aviation #1 which is almost the same, but made with violet liqueur instead of lemon juice. I like the Aviation #2 better, but I will probably never get to have a Number One again, since Comme Ca makes their own violet liqueur, and I’m guessing not many other places have it. (It tastes like flowers, unsurprisingly, in case you were wondering).

My husband did, and with his braised beef entree, Joel recommended a Brooklyn cocktail (whiskey, vermouth, bitters, maraschino). It paired perfectly with the meat and we liked it so much we recreated them the next day. $14 for a cocktail definitely makes my eyes bug out, but since I don’t think I’ve had a comparable bar experience in Los Angeles yet, I guess it’s cheaper than flying to New York or San Francisco to go to a bar.

I immediately observed that in addition to the status of the chef/owner, the prices can be explained by the fact that there are seemingly endless staff working here. There were two bartenders, two oyster plate preparers, a cheese woman, and a whole host of other front of housers whom I often could not tell what their function was. But until the place got packed later in the evening, there were more employees than diners, it seemed. I can’t complain about that.

I kept my meal light, just ordering the aforementioned butter lettuce salad and some pommes frites as I wanted to save room for cheese. The salad and fries were good but not exceptional, but the garlic aioli that came with the fries was downright addictive. My husband ordered the French onion soup and a braised beef entree. The onion soup was worthy of any Parisian bistro and beef was excellent. It was fall-apart tender and rich in a way that makes you happy it’s winter.

For dessert we ordered a cheese plate, chosen by the fromagier. I thought it was a nice touch that she wrangled her way through the crowd that had appeared behind us at the bar to explain the cheeses to us. The only cheese I can remember well was a ripe Epoisses. They were all good cheeses though, and each came with its own accompaniment.

If you have the money to spend, and you don’t mind sitting at the bar, or battling it out for a reservation, then Comme Ca does do a nice job of replicating an upscale version of a French restaurant experience. The staff is attentive and well-trained, and the bar experience is one of the best we’ve had in L.A. for a while.

Comme Ca
8479 Melrose Avenue
323.782.1178

By KT (see more of her posts). You can find more of KT's writing at her own website Gastronomy 101.

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