Patisserie Chantilly: Beard Papa’s Worst Nightmare

Saturday, October 4, 2008 13:34

“Are you bringing the cream puffs?,” Cliff asked hopefully. Then drolly, “Don’t bother coming if you’re not.”

So prized are the cream puffs of Patisserie Chantilly that I believe my dinner party stock value has tripled because of them. (But I want you to love me for who I am!

——-
Open the door to the chic bakery and ZAP! You’ve stepped over the threshold to Shinjuku or Ginza. Suddenly, everything FEELS different.

You walk up to the case and peer inside. Jeweled edibles present themselves and you wonder whether it would be too embarrassing to order one of everything. But, being in the know, you know there is only one thing to order: The Cream Puff.

In the past few years, Los Angeles has been living through something of a cream puff boom, spearheaded by the arrival (invasion?) of Beard Papa, the Japanese chain.  Beard Papa is the Toyota Corolla of the cream puff world–high volume, flabbily non-descript and perfectly fine for those with low thresholds for gastronomic satisfaction.  

Sometimes, however, the grass IS greener on the other side of the fence. In this case, the greener side is in Lomita and takes the form of a taut, disciplined confection handcrafted by Keiko Nojima, the reigning master of the Los Angeles cream puff. 

There are three forms that temptation can take–vanilla custard, black sesame and the newest–chocolate. Black sesame is the most original flavor with kinako sweet soybean powder sprinkled on top and honey swirled into the black sesame cream. It is simultaneously earthy and transcendent. Custard, their bestseller, is refined, adult and completely addictive. Comparing it to the Beard Papa version is like putting an elegant geisha next to a gum-chewing bar girl. No comparison. Chocolate is high quality and a welcome addition to the trio. But somehow not as original as black sesame or as satisfying as the traditional custard. 

No matter what, these are glorious things and your dinner parties will never be the same. 

Patisserie Chantilly
2383 Lomita Blvd
#10
Lomita, CA 90717
(310) 257-9454
www.patisseriechantilly.com

By Secret Asian Man (see more of his posts). You can find more writing at his own website The Digestive Tract

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5 Responses to “Patisserie Chantilly: Beard Papa’s Worst Nightmare”

  1. Jonah says:

    October 4th, 2008 at 2:13 pm

    Great first post! Looking forward to more.

  2. Heidi says:

    October 5th, 2008 at 2:44 pm

    Those look amazingly delicious, thanks for your review! I would gain 18 lbs if I lived nearby! Feel free to visit Savory Tv for delicious gourmet chef recipe videos, and if any LA chefs would like to be featured please contact me!

  3. Pauline says:

    October 5th, 2008 at 7:40 pm

    I have to admit, I do love my occasional Beard Papa indulgence. I am definitely intrigued by your review. I may have to make it out to Lomita and cheat on BP a little.

    Welcome to la.foodblogging. :)

  4. Secret Asian Man says:

    October 5th, 2008 at 8:10 pm

    Pauline,

    If you do make out to Lomita, I’ll be very curious to hear your impression. Please do write back.

    All best,

    SAM

  5. Yu Shan says:

    June 3rd, 2009 at 3:29 am

    Is this the place next to Gaja? I’ve always been wanting to try it but they’re closed!

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