How to explain to loved ones that you’ve eaten at the same place three nights in a row?

Well…how about warm, familial service, a check that doesn’t hurt and food that is simply out of this world?

While others may wait a month for Mozza, why not just slide into a welcoming table at Brunello Trattoria tonight? Run by the ultimate foodie family, the Morra’s, Brunello is one of the few LA Italian spots that’s entirely a family affair. Sister is in the kitchen, Brother mans the register, Another Brother crafts the bread and pizza (and owns the place!), Nephew waits tables. To top it off, the Food Channel, not ESPN, broadcasts from the LCDs at the bar.

I am so addicted to this place and hope that one day soon you will be too. First, there are specials on the menu and off the menu. Knowing what to ask for is part of the fun. The special I had (two nights in a row, since I kept obsessing about it the next day) was a flat, thin, fresh fettucine with veal and fresh porcini in a chianti sautee. This dish will transform your understanding of pasta. Call ahead and ask for it! Be careful, it will so dominate your consciousness for days after that your life will no longer be your own.

My friend had Chicken Piccata, a standard Italian lexicon dish, but this one was so well crafted it was like discovering the flavors for the first time. It was delightful. There is subtlety to the cooking that is hard to find. Plus, the potatoes it comes with take to the sauce like ducks to water. Your dog parts will want to roll around in it.

On night number two, Visiting Mother tucked into Spaghetti with Capers and Artichokes–a celebration of summer flavors.

Night number three, Trusty Dining Companion had a magnificent Linguine with Shrimp and Mushrooms, which I generously finished. This dish was a testament to the scrumptious simplicity of the Italian noodle. We shared a Pizza Quattro Stagione which was so fantastically delicious it lasted about 2.5 milliseconds on the table. I should also say that the bread is fantastic too.

There’s a room in the back that will host a nice party of 20. The atmosphere is warm and friendly.

What makes Brunello so special is that food, service and atmosphere come together so harmoniously that you walk out feeling happy and content with the world.

Bring your Loved Ones.

Trattoria Brunello
6001 Washington Blvd,
(@La Cienega)
Culver City, CA 90232
310-280-3856

PS. Rumor has it one of the Morra brothers is about to start a new pizzeria.

“Are you bringing the cream puffs?,” Cliff asked hopefully. Then drolly, “Don’t bother coming if you’re not.”

So prized are the cream puffs of Patisserie Chantilly that I believe my dinner party stock value has tripled because of them. (But I want you to love me for who I am!) 

——-
Open the door to the chic bakery and ZAP! You’ve stepped over the threshold to Shinjuku or Ginza. Suddenly, everything FEELS different.

You walk up to the case and peer inside. Jeweled edibles present themselves and you wonder whether it would be too embarrassing to order one of everything. But, being in the know, you know there is only one thing to order: The Cream Puff.

In the past few years, Los Angeles has been living through something of a cream puff boom, spearheaded by the arrival (invasion?) of Beard Papa, the Japanese chain.  Beard Papa is the Toyota Corolla of the cream puff world–high volume, flabbily non-descript and perfectly fine for those with low thresholds for gastronomic satisfaction.  

Sometimes, however, the grass IS greener on the other side of the fence. In this case, the greener side is in Lomita and takes the form of a taut, disciplined confection handcrafted by Keiko Nojima, the reigning master of the Los Angeles cream puff. 

There are three forms that temptation can take–vanilla custard, black sesame and the newest–chocolate. Black sesame is the most original flavor with kinako sweet soybean powder sprinkled on top and honey swirled into the black sesame cream. It is simultaneously earthy and transcendent. Custard, their bestseller, is refined, adult and completely addictive. Comparing it to the Beard Papa version is like putting an elegant geisha next to a gum-chewing bar girl. No comparison. Chocolate is high quality and a welcome addition to the trio. But somehow not as original as black sesame or as satisfying as the traditional custard. 

No matter what, these are glorious things and your dinner parties will never be the same. 

Patisserie Chantilly
2383 Lomita Blvd
#10
Lomita, CA 90717
(310) 257-9454
www.patisseriechantilly.com

Hey everyone - I was just at Leda’s Bake Shop (Sherman Oaks) on Friday and found out that Ledette is planning to close down and re-think her bakery. She mentioned re-opening in the New Year and *no more cupcakes*!!! (too labor intensive)

SO - the very last day you can walk in and get a Leda’s Bake Shop cupcake will be

Saturday Oct 18th.

NB - they recently changed their hours of business:

After observing recent business trends, baker Ledette is devoting Tues, Wed and Thursdays to catering and pre-orders. You’ll need to place your order the day before and there is a 24 cupcake minimum per flavor, but no minimums on their outstanding cookies, macaroons and delectable scones.

On Fridays and Saturdays, Leda’s Bake Shop is open for that spontaneous mini-cupcake craving, 10.30am ’till 6pm.
13722 Ventura Blvd, Sherman Oaks, just W of Woodman,
(818) 386-9644
Go to their website for a full range of their flavors:

Leda’s Bake Shop

Go here for my previous report.

Sandwiched between more casual fare, Orris is the type of place you could easily miss. It looks like a posh izakaya, a single room of close-set tables and some counter seating, pleasantly packed and respectfully low-key. A big, chiseled Okinawan (a man you could mistake for Beat Takeshi’s gangster brother) lords over the open kitchen: this is Hideo Yamashiro, the owner and chef.

Yamashiro (known by L.A. foodies as “Shiro”) is also the owner and chef of Shiro in South Pasadena. With Orris, he hones in on the sublimity of the small plate. He shops for his own ingredients daily, then serves up French-Japanese fusion cuisine, one of the many great gifts to come out of “the creative capital of the world.”

The four of us ordered two dishes each and split them all. Our first dish, the albacore lettuce cups, was gone in a crisp flash, leaving a tang of aioli and jalapeno. Our next plate came just as we finished the first, and was Yuri’s favorite: tuna tartare, accented with pignoli nuts and quail eggs.

The warm snapper carpaccio, a thin layer of white fish pressed to the plate, was third. Seasoned Szechuan-style and drizzled with bean paste, the flavors played together so well we could picture them holding hands and graduating from charm school.

We polished off the curry-infused shrimp (sprinkled with Okinawan sea salt) and free range chicken karaage. We wanted to bottle the perfect dipping sauces and sell them on eBay for millions.

The basil-marinated black cod was delicious, but not a showstopper (we still prefer Andre Guerrero’s): Shiro’s smoked salmon croquettes, however, were. These perfect little specimens -– perched on top of potato cakes, and topped with onion, chives, creme fraiche, and salmon caviar -– are so good you don’t even want to chew.

While we mulled, glassy-eyed, over dessert –- a flourless chocolate cake with coffee gelato, a raspberry wonton with cream sauce -– Shiro set aside his big chef’s hat, sat down at one of his own counter seats, and rested, with some red wine and a small plate of cheese. He looked serious but tired, massaging his temples, like he’d been cutting marble all day.

We asked our waiter to pay our compliments to the chef. Shiro grinned and bowed graciously. Forget Hollywood, we thought: here was an artist, right in the heart of Sawtelle, with good manners to boot.

Orris
2006 Sawtelle Boulevard
Los Angeles, California 90025
(310) 268-2212 (no reservations accepted)

Overall, Noodle House was pretty disappointing. Their food wasn’t bad at all, but I just expected a lot more flavor for a place that specializes in dumplings. It’s strange that there are no vegetarian dumplings on the menu and they refused to make any when I asked them about it. Considering they’re a “made to order” restaurant, I would have thought it’d be easy for them to just stick the filling they use for the veggie buns into some dumpling wrappers.

I’m also considering not patronizing this place anymore because we asked if they could make one of our orders of dumplings pan-fried (as in pot-stickers) and they lady said no. That would have been fine, but after all our food came and the restaurant filled up, I saw that the table next to us had pot-stickers! I don’t think it’s a timing issue because when we asked, the restaurant was only half full. I think it’s pretty rude to give some customers the “right” to potstickers while denying it to others.

If the food had been better, I could have excused that rudeness, but since it was so disappointing, I don’t think I’ll be returning.

Noodle House (Mian Hsiang Yuan)
958 E. Garvey Ave.
Monterey Park, CA 91755
Tel: (626) 280-0831

It’s worth mentioning that Mei Lin’s you tiao is different that that of Yi Mei’s and Four Seas’; they have more of a Shanghai-style you tiao where it’s more dense and flaky than airy and crunchy. I like both types, so it’s nice to have the choice.

The owners who were working behind the counter were accommodating and patient with my questions about which items were vegan and which were not. They didn’t even flinch when I asked if the buns could be made vegan. I didn’t get a chance to try out their fan tuan (rice rolls) at Mei Lin, but of the breakfast foods I did try, I prefer the ones at Yi Mei and Four Seas more. What I will come back for though, are the shui jian baos.

Mei Lin Tou Chiang
1257 E Valley Blvd
Alhambra, CA 91801
(626) 284-1868
They’re in the same plaza as Lee’s Sandwiches, but all the way down, almost to the Valley market in the back.

For previous Chinese Breakfast Showdowns:

• Part 1: Yi Mei vs. Four Sea
• Part 2: Yi Mei vs. Yung Ho

Bocca:  Steakhouse Fusion Lounge
Encino, CA

I can’t think of a better way to spend a Sunday afternoon then relaxing over lunch and a glass of wine.  And save a few minor drawbacks, Bocca in Encino, offered just that.

My boyfriend and I got to Bocca around 1pm and found the restaurant e-m-p-t-y…empty!   I felt sad for the place.  With it’s clean line, modern feel and inviting atrium and patio, this spot is perfect for a leisurely lunch (and probably a romantic night out too.)

We were greeted right away, and since we had our choice of tables, picked a nice spot by the window.  The wine list was decent, if not overly inventive.  I had a glass of Savignon Blanc, a perfect choice for a balmy Sunday nosh.

We browsed the menu, and while I’m always a little scared when the offerings are all over the map, as was the case with Bocca, they call themselves a “fusion” steakhouse and lounge, so I reserved judgment.  I just wondered how well one can do Antipasto, Tuna Tartar, and Mini Beef Tacos. Instead of a standard appetizer I started off with the Creamy Wild Mushroom with Hazelnut Soup.

For $6.00 it was a decent portion. I wasn’t in love with the way it looked, but then again, it is pureed mushrooms, what can you expect? The flavor was really nice.  Rich, meaty, earthy.  If I had eaten nothing but that, I would have left satisfied.

We also ordered a sandwich which came with a side salad.

It was a very decent sized portion.  While it was a very simple salad, I will say the greens and veggies were exceptionally crisp and fresh.  The balsamic vinaigrette was also creamy with a good tang.  Since their sign says they are a steakhouse, and since we weren’t prepared to scarf down a full steak meal, we compromised and got the Steak Sandwich. For around $12 we thought it was a pretty nice size.  They also served bbq and steak size on the side.  And if you love sauces, for the dippin’, like I do, this is a nice touch.

We ordered it medium rare and it was cooked perfectly. The roll and veggies were also really good.  I just found the seasoning a bit lacking, there was nothing about the flavor of the meat that made it a stand out.  I felt I could have seasoned it better at home.   

Since we only tried 3 things, I can’t truly give this place a 100% thumbs up or thumbs down.  I liked the feel of the space, but do love the energy of a bustling restaurant, which Bocca lacked.    I will certainly give it another try, going on another day, at a traditionally busier time.  And next time maybe I’ll get crazy and order something Mexican, something Italian and something Asian inspired!  When I do I’ll report back here asap. 

Bocca - Steakhouse/Fusion/Lounge
16610 Ventura Blvd.  Encino, CA 91436
818.905.5855

Beverages:
I have ordered off of prix fixe menus before at other restaurants, and if beverages are included, the choices are usually coffee, tea, or soft drinks. Porterhouse Bistro does one better and allows guests the option of choosing a glass of any of their house wines. If you prefer wine or cocktail not on the house list, you simply pay an additional $5. These days, a decent martini will run you $10, so paying $5 for one at Porterhouse Bistro is a bargain. For my first choice, I picked the house pinot noir. I don’t remember the vineyard it came from, but the wine was quite drinkable. It had a very strong fruity presence. If I had not ordered from the prix fixe menu, the glass of pinot noir would be $6. (I will try to include the regular menu price for your reference.) You can order your second beverage at any time. I chose a cup of coffee to go with my dessert.

First Course:
From the menu, I wasn’t very impressed with the first course, bread. When the bread came, however, I was singing a different tune. While I enjoy La Brea Bakery’s bread, the fact that Porterhouse Bistro serves it is not the reason why I was happy. The bread was served with a whole roasted garlic bulb, butter, olive oil with balsamic vinegar, and the house tapenade. I loved that we got to choose what to accompany our warm bread with. Now, I really am not one to talk about butter of all things in restaurant reviews, but I have to say, the butter Porterhouse Bistro gave us is better than the butter at the restaurants I’ve been eating at lately. It tasted creamy but not greasy. I couldn’t help commenting about this at the table, and one of my friends immediately had to try it for herself. She agreed with me that the butter was indeed creamier than standard restaurant butter. The roasted garlic disappeared very quickly. I really enjoyed the garlic’s soft texture and very slight sweetness. My friends and I did not talk much about the roasted garlic, but since each clove was devoured, I think it’s safe to say we all liked it. We barely made a dent in the tapenade, not because we didn’t like it, but rather because Porterhouse Bistro gave us a lot of it. I find that every restaurant makes tepenade a little differently. Some have more olive oil than others, some are courser than others. Porterhouse Bistro’s tepenade is not oily, and you definitely see the finely chopped up olives in each spoonful.

Second Course: Appetizer
Friend #1 chose the smoked salmon quesadilla ($10) , Friend #2 - gargonzola tart ($10), and Friend #3 - spinach salad ($9). I was torn. I kept going back and forth between the romaine and endive salad ($10) and the onion soup ($8). I asked our server which I should choose. He started to advise me on the salad, and then he changed his mind and recommended the soup. I did as he suggested, and I am so glad I ordered the soup. This was by far the best onion soup I had in years. The soup is not covered in cheese, but rather a very light pastry dough. There is a little bit of cheese in the soup itself though. Unlike with many bistro onion soups, this one was not overly salty. The broth was an unexpected very light brown. It had a light, sweet, and spicy (lots of pepper was used) taste. The onions were soft, sweet, and translucent. The flavor was absolutely delicious. My friends all tried a spoonful of the soup and concurred that it was really very good. I tried their appetizers as well, and while theirs were good, too, I think the soup was the best out of all the appetizers. The gargonzola tart was served on a bed of greens with a raspberry dressing. The contrasts of the rich cheese with the light salad and of the salty tart with the sweet dressing were delightful. The smoked salmon quesadilla surprised me at first bite because it was filled with cream cheese. I never thought of making a quesadilla using cream cheese, but since lox and cream cheese is a common combination, it worked well in this dish.

Third Course: Entree
Friend #1 chose the rack of lamb, served with garlic mashed potatoes and steamed broccoli ($27). Her lamb was very good - juicy and tender, very flavorful. The rest of us all picked the 12-oz rib eye steak ($29), but we each chose a different side dish. Even though we ordered the same steak, and we asked for medium, only one of us actually got medium. Friend #2 and I actually got a well done steak. The rib eye steak was still overall good, as it is quality meat and well seasoned, but the steak was a little bit on the dry side. We both looked enviously at Friend #3, as she ate her perfectly medium steak. Our server came by and asked how everything was. I did mention to him that I would have liked my steak more had it not been overcooked. He asked if I wanted a new one. I declined, but then he looked at me and insisted that I get a new one because I should be happy with my food. He was so very nice about it, that I didn’t feel the slightest bit uncomfortable about accepting the offer. While I was waiting for the new steak, I nibbled on the side dishes we ordered, house fries ($9), sauteed mushrooms ($9), and the steamed broccoli ($6). The fries reminded me a little of BJ Brewery’s, but much better. The fries were dipped in seasoned batter before they were deep fried. Porterhouse Bistro’s fries were dangerously addictive. The sauteed mushrooms were also good. I’m not the biggest fan of mushrooms, and even I liked these. My problem with mushrooms have always been a texture issue. I hate bland and mushy mushrooms with a passion. Porterhouse Bistro’s sauteed mushrooms were tasty and firm but not hard. My new steak arrived very quickly at my table, still sizzling on the plate. My friends I joked that we don’t typically see sizzling steak at bistros. After letting the juices settle a little, I cut one piece of the steak, and it was delicious. I was very impressed. I shared a portion of my steak with Friend #2, and she agreed that the new steak was so much better than our well done ones. I have to admit, while eating the first rib eye steak, I didn’t understand why so many people raved about Porterhouse Bistro. While eating the second one, I was ready to lead the charge on lavishing praise on them.

Fourth Course: Dessert
Before our desserts arrived, we were surprised when our server brought a big glowing blue object to our table:

This turned out to be a nice treat of cotton candy with a flame in the center. We had hard time trying to remember when was the last time we had eaten cotton candy. This was a fun centerpiece at the table, and we certainly enjoyed tearing it apart and eating it.

We ordered two creme brulees ($8), a chocolate lava cake ($9), and an apple tart ($8). I was not impressed with creme brulee at all. The flavor was good, and I loved that I could see specks of vanilla bean in it, but the texture was not right. I felt that the creme brulee was overcooked. The creme brulees were the only desserts that we ordered that were left unfinished. The chocolate lava cake was good, but not spectacular. Also, after having had many lava cakes over the years, we all expected lava (chocolate sauce or fudge) to ooze out from the center as we cut into it. That didn’t happen though. Nevertheless, the cake was full of chocolatey goodness. I thought the best dessert was my choice, the apple tart. I had previously mentioned (in my review of Susina Bakery) that it seems most places make their apple tarts by layering thin slices of apple, and Porterhouse Bistro is no different in that respect. It may not be an original dessert, but it was ever so delicious. Even though the apple slices were so thin, Porterhouse Bistro layered them so generously that the apple flavor was enjoyed in every bite. The pastry part of the tart was very crispy. Again, not very original but always a great a combination, adding some caramel and a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream on the side made this apple tart a winning dessert.

To get your own 20% discount letter from Porterhouse Bistro, you can sign up on their website when you make reservations.

Porterhouse Bistro
8635 Wilshire Blvd.
Beverly Hills, CA 90211
Phone: (310) 659-1099
Mon-Fri: 6:00pm - 10:00pm, Sat & Sun: 5:00pm-10:00pm

Step inside this restored 1928 Spanish mission-style cottage, located on Riverside in Toluca Lake, and you might think you’ve been transported to somewhere in the exotic Spanish or Latin American countryside. D’Caché is a lively restaurant where they serve modern Latin-fusion cuisine, tapas and fine wines and great drinks. Try a fresh Columbian mojito made from Aguardiente and fresh mint or raspberry, melon and strawberry mojitos and margaritas.

The converted house has medium-sized dining rooms and secluded patios with comfy sofas to lounge on underneath white draperies. The back patio also has a pretty fountain. Out there, the two-seater tables are made from huge, polished discs of wood, hand-hewn from a large tree they had to lop down in the backyard. These beautiful tables are remarkable!

D’Caché also has a smoking patio and inside there is a small private room with a ‘U’ shaped couch and a TV. Perfect for a laid-back board meeting.

Before I get to the outstanding cuisine, one feature of the experience is the Rumba Gipsy and world music performances every night. The live entertainment starts at 7pm and goes until 9.30pm or so, Tuesday ’till Saturday evenings.

I went on a Wednesday evening and the musicians were incredible. Bandidos de Amor, a talented trio of flamenco-style guitarists and singers, sounded a lot like the Gipsy Kings and played plenty of boisterous music of that flavor.

So, to start with drinks, any Spanish restaurant worth their salt had better offer sangria. At D’Caché they concoct an exotic blend of three wines with gin and perfume it with cinnamon and brandy infused apples. Also their wine list is fairly extensive and features wine from Chile, Argentina and Spain as well as domestic varieties, all priced at around $8-9 per glass, bottles also available.

We started with the soupe du jour – wild mushroom soup ($9). This was unctuous and incredibly rich and delicious; a caramelized-sweet, smooth soup that was fragrant with truffle oil. Just fantastic!

With only twelve appetizers and eight entree dishes on the menu, you can tell the kitchen does it all well. We started with a serving of three large empanadas ($12) filled with slow-cooked shredded pork and dressed with a confetti of mango salsa. Lovely! Other appetizers to snack on include tapas such as Patacones con Cerviche – shrimp cocktail over fried plantains – or a variety of pizette.

Main courses include Spanish classics such as a smoky and seafood-packed Paella ($32) and Pollo Catalan. They also offer seared blue fin tuna with a cilantro crust and a warm salad of asparagus and greens.

Brazilian-style Lamb chops, crusted with pistachio pesto ($42), were perfectly cooked. The basil and truffle oils almost gild the lily, but the red wine reduction cuts through the rich sauce like Zorro!

Everything was very rich, so order wisely, but like a siren’s song, the best flavors of all Latin cultures at D’Caché will call you to return again and again.

Valet and street parking available.

D’Caché Restaurant, 10717 Riverside, Toluca Lake, between Lankershim and Cahuenga.
(818) 506 9600.
Open 5pm ’till midnight, Tues - Sat.
Sunday and Monday – only open for special events.