He was a little confused when we walked up to the restaurant, and he saw the awning in front of the restaurant labeled as Institute for Urban Research and Development. It turns out that IURD sponsored the non-profit cafe. In addition to providing excellent food and good service, the restaurant provides job training for many every year.

Once we walked into the restaurant, we saw a sign that said to wait for Mama to be seated. My friend asked, “Well, where’s Mama?” As soon as he said that, Sandi “Mama” Romero appeared. She was friendly and welcomed us to pick our own table. We pretty much knew right away what we were going to order - the two tamales combo ($7.50). Basically, we pick two tamales and then we choose among tortilla soup, salad, or rice and beans. (If you want to skip the extras and just fill up on tamales, they are $2.75 each, but if you order 3 or more, the price becomes $2.50 each.) Since it was raining outside, we both opted for the tortilla soup. I really didn’t expect such a large bowl, but the tortilla soup could have been an entire meal for me. The soup arrived piping hot, in both temperature and spiciness. I do typically enjoy tortilla soup in general, but one of my pet peeves about this soup is when the tortilla strips in the soup are already soggy by the time I have my first taste. This definitely wasn’t the case at Mama’s. In addition, I had one spoonful that almost made me feel like I was having chips and salsa. The tortilla strip was still crispy, and in the same bite, I had some tomatoes, onions, cilantro, melted cheese, and the slight kick in the broth.

I could go on and on about the soup, but let’s get to the real action. Just so you know how popular Mama’s tamales really are, I had initially picked the beef in adobo sauce. I was disappointed to hear that someone had already purchased and picked up all of the beef tamales they had! Thus I wound up choosing the pork (Honduras style and wrapped in banana leaves) and vegetables and cheese tamales (wrapped in corn husk). The tamales were as good as I remembered. The masa was so moist and delicate. While I liked the pork tamale, it wasn’t my favorite. I like potatoes but not necessarily in the center of a tamale. That definitely threw me off on this tamale. The mixed vegetables in the second tamale were not impressive (literally one kernel of corn, one piece of diced carrot, 2 peas, one mushroom, etc.) but what was impressive was how the cheese was nice and gooey. While the veggies and cheese tamale appears plain, it was actually quite delicious. This is why I like Mama’s tamales.

We finished off our meal with an orange flan ($7). Basically it’s your typical flan with a good amount of orange zest in every bite. This was a lovely ending to a wonderful meal. I think one of the tricks about Mama’s food is that they look simple, but they are packed with flavor.

Mama’s Hot Tamales Cafe
2122 West 7th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90057
Phone: (213) 487-7474
Hours: 11am-3:30pm Daily

Lunch: Tu-F 11:30 am – 2:30 pm
Dinner: Su, Tu-Th 5:30 pm – 9:00 pm; F-Sa 5:30 pm – 10:00 pm

Bottom Line: Think good Mexican food is all tacos from the side of a truck? Think again. And again. And again.

On a slow night at Babita, chef Roberto Berrelleza glides out of the kitchen, clad in chef’s whites, to bring you a main course. “When I put this in oven,� he proclaims, sliding a towering plate of braised pork shank onto the table, “it was two and a half pounds!�

After his sixteen years as a maitre d’ at some of the finest restaurants in L.A., I guess old habits die hard – even when you’re now in the kitchen.

Situated at the quiet corner of San Gabriel Boulevard and Norwood Place with no parking and nary a street light to keep it lit, Babita seems almost like any other house on the block; eating here is less like dining at a restaurant as much as being invited into Berrelleza’s house for a family meal.

The intimate, ten-table dining room is in the capable hands of Berrelleza’s wife and their daughter, Elba (their other daughter is the restaurant’s namesake). From your first bite of the endlessly crisp house-made tortilla chips and salsa to your last, lingering moment in a luxurious flan, Elba is all smiles, making you feel comfortable, unrushed, and, well – right at home.

The stars of the starters are undoubtedly the tangy ceviches, ranging from a gentle Sope Witusi with snapper, beans, and julienned carrots, to a spirited cilantro margarita sorbet served with snapper and caviar. While these are not all successful marriages (the tequila tends to overpower the delicate fish flavor), in just one bite you will know that you have found something special.

Signature main courses like the tender barbacoa beef cheeks (slow-braised in its own juices until the meat flakes off with but a touch of a fork) and the fiery, habanero-studded shrimp Topolobampo (sautéed with citrus and white wine) are a testament to Berrelleza’s creativity; the food is at once inventive and continental, yet always distinctly Mexican. For instance, sautéed scallops are served with a white wine sauce and Mexican spices, while piping hot, hand-made corn tortillas accompany most main courses.

I keep going back because it keeps me guessing. Whether it is the sumptuous daily special or the next intriguing menu item, I always learn something new about the ingredients or the authentic flavors I’ve never tasted before. Next time, it’ll be chiles en nogata and the halibut with huitlacoche.

But first I’ll finish these leftovers from last night’s trip.