Step inside this restored 1928 Spanish mission-style cottage, located on Riverside in Toluca Lake, and you might think you’ve been transported to somewhere in the exotic Spanish or Latin American countryside. D’Caché is a lively restaurant where they serve modern Latin-fusion cuisine, tapas and fine wines and great drinks. Try a fresh Columbian mojito made from Aguardiente and fresh mint or raspberry, melon and strawberry mojitos and margaritas.

The converted house has medium-sized dining rooms and secluded patios with comfy sofas to lounge on underneath white draperies. The back patio also has a pretty fountain. Out there, the two-seater tables are made from huge, polished discs of wood, hand-hewn from a large tree they had to lop down in the backyard. These beautiful tables are remarkable!

D’Caché also has a smoking patio and inside there is a small private room with a ‘U’ shaped couch and a TV. Perfect for a laid-back board meeting.

Before I get to the outstanding cuisine, one feature of the experience is the Rumba Gipsy and world music performances every night. The live entertainment starts at 7pm and goes until 9.30pm or so, Tuesday ’till Saturday evenings.

I went on a Wednesday evening and the musicians were incredible. Bandidos de Amor, a talented trio of flamenco-style guitarists and singers, sounded a lot like the Gipsy Kings and played plenty of boisterous music of that flavor.

So, to start with drinks, any Spanish restaurant worth their salt had better offer sangria. At D’Caché they concoct an exotic blend of three wines with gin and perfume it with cinnamon and brandy infused apples. Also their wine list is fairly extensive and features wine from Chile, Argentina and Spain as well as domestic varieties, all priced at around $8-9 per glass, bottles also available.

We started with the soupe du jour – wild mushroom soup ($9). This was unctuous and incredibly rich and delicious; a caramelized-sweet, smooth soup that was fragrant with truffle oil. Just fantastic!

With only twelve appetizers and eight entree dishes on the menu, you can tell the kitchen does it all well. We started with a serving of three large empanadas ($12) filled with slow-cooked shredded pork and dressed with a confetti of mango salsa. Lovely! Other appetizers to snack on include tapas such as Patacones con Cerviche – shrimp cocktail over fried plantains – or a variety of pizette.

Main courses include Spanish classics such as a smoky and seafood-packed Paella ($32) and Pollo Catalan. They also offer seared blue fin tuna with a cilantro crust and a warm salad of asparagus and greens.

Brazilian-style Lamb chops, crusted with pistachio pesto ($42), were perfectly cooked. The basil and truffle oils almost gild the lily, but the red wine reduction cuts through the rich sauce like Zorro!

Everything was very rich, so order wisely, but like a siren’s song, the best flavors of all Latin cultures at D’Caché will call you to return again and again.

Valet and street parking available.

D’Caché Restaurant, 10717 Riverside, Toluca Lake, between Lankershim and Cahuenga.
(818) 506 9600.
Open 5pm ’till midnight, Tues - Sat.
Sunday and Monday – only open for special events.

He was a little confused when we walked up to the restaurant, and he saw the awning in front of the restaurant labeled as Institute for Urban Research and Development. It turns out that IURD sponsored the non-profit cafe. In addition to providing excellent food and good service, the restaurant provides job training for many every year.

Once we walked into the restaurant, we saw a sign that said to wait for Mama to be seated. My friend asked, “Well, where’s Mama?” As soon as he said that, Sandi “Mama” Romero appeared. She was friendly and welcomed us to pick our own table. We pretty much knew right away what we were going to order - the two tamales combo ($7.50). Basically, we pick two tamales and then we choose among tortilla soup, salad, or rice and beans. (If you want to skip the extras and just fill up on tamales, they are $2.75 each, but if you order 3 or more, the price becomes $2.50 each.) Since it was raining outside, we both opted for the tortilla soup. I really didn’t expect such a large bowl, but the tortilla soup could have been an entire meal for me. The soup arrived piping hot, in both temperature and spiciness. I do typically enjoy tortilla soup in general, but one of my pet peeves about this soup is when the tortilla strips in the soup are already soggy by the time I have my first taste. This definitely wasn’t the case at Mama’s. In addition, I had one spoonful that almost made me feel like I was having chips and salsa. The tortilla strip was still crispy, and in the same bite, I had some tomatoes, onions, cilantro, melted cheese, and the slight kick in the broth.

I could go on and on about the soup, but let’s get to the real action. Just so you know how popular Mama’s tamales really are, I had initially picked the beef in adobo sauce. I was disappointed to hear that someone had already purchased and picked up all of the beef tamales they had! Thus I wound up choosing the pork (Honduras style and wrapped in banana leaves) and vegetables and cheese tamales (wrapped in corn husk). The tamales were as good as I remembered. The masa was so moist and delicate. While I liked the pork tamale, it wasn’t my favorite. I like potatoes but not necessarily in the center of a tamale. That definitely threw me off on this tamale. The mixed vegetables in the second tamale were not impressive (literally one kernel of corn, one piece of diced carrot, 2 peas, one mushroom, etc.) but what was impressive was how the cheese was nice and gooey. While the veggies and cheese tamale appears plain, it was actually quite delicious. This is why I like Mama’s tamales.

We finished off our meal with an orange flan ($7). Basically it’s your typical flan with a good amount of orange zest in every bite. This was a lovely ending to a wonderful meal. I think one of the tricks about Mama’s food is that they look simple, but they are packed with flavor.

Mama’s Hot Tamales Cafe
2122 West 7th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90057
Phone: (213) 487-7474
Hours: 11am-3:30pm Daily

Nothing says Christmas like ceviche, right?
Anything this heavenly is most definitely a gift from the universe.
And since I’m leaving for a 2 week jaunt to the Peruvian Amazon tomorrow, it’s time to pay homage to the best ethnic food craze evah.

Los Balcones del Peru has received a lot of hullabaloo since it’s opening, and for good reason. The ever-popular Mario’s, just south of this haunt, deserved a little Peruvian competition. It hasn’t been all raves and lovefests, but for the most part, Balcones is adored. As a recent visitor to the country in question, I was absolutely craving an experience here.

I did my homework first. I read the many reviews, scanned the Chowhound postings, and landed on a very informative breakdown from Alejandro on his Peru Food blog. Not only did he review the food, but he offered an awesome history of the famous balconies in Lima, for which the restaurant is named. Good stuff. Made me hungry.

It was hard not to salivate over the menu. Beef, chicken, seafood - it’s all covered. And more ceviche options than I ever thought possible. It’s times like these that I wish I had an insanely efficient metabolism and an appetite to match. Oh wait, I have the appetite. Curses.
Anyway, we ordered two of the most-oft raved about dishes, but shied away from Jonathan Gold’s beloved favorite - not because I don’t believe Mr. Foodie, but because I felt like living on the edge. So crazy, I am.

Service was prompt and friendly, but the place was almost empty. The space is dotted with small replicas of Lima’s famous balcones, and that’s the only offered ambiance.

Here’s what we had –

Drinks:

Just sodas. Nuttin’ fancy.

Bread:

Nondescript thin bread

Entrees:

Los Balcones del Peru Ceviche (pictured at the top)
– Calamari (both fried and raw), a luscious white fish, and shrimp marinated in lime yumminess and spiced up to an impressive degree, served with various veggies and real-deal Peruvian corn from le Andes!
Oh.My.God. I could live happily ever after with this dish. It’s just insanely good. Super fresh seafood, and calamari so tender it’s almost as if Mr. Squid is posing as a stick of butter. The heat was intense but didn’t overpower the other flavors, and that gigantic Peruvian corn is the perfect compliment in taste and texture. I loved this all over the place.

Saltado de Mariscos

- Strips of seasoned beef and veggies served on fresh cut french fries and a side of white rice
My my, this too was outstanding. Such an awesome carb + protein combo, although I feel the rice is unnecessary. The smoky flavors and awesome texture contrasts made me ecstatic. I’ve since tried the chicken version, and it’s equally delicious. The quality of ingredients, for the price, is stellar. I’m sold.

Damage for 2 sodas and 2 entrees was about $25, before tip.

RESTAURANT REPORT CARD - Los Balcones del Peru, Visit 1

Ambiance - C
Service - B
Food (Taste) - A-
Food (Presentation) - C+
Wine/Drinks - N/A (just had non-alchies)
Value - A
Vibe/Energy/Scene - C

Overall Experience - B

Final word - yeah, so, it’s a wee bit lacking in the ambiance department, and this isn’t your fancy pants palace, but the food is original, inexpensive, and absolutely outstanding.

Happy holidays everybody! Stop by ye olde web page anytime and say hi.

I’ll be back to blogging upon the return from Peru - until then, happy eating!

Lunch: Tu-F 11:30 am – 2:30 pm
Dinner: Su, Tu-Th 5:30 pm – 9:00 pm; F-Sa 5:30 pm – 10:00 pm

Bottom Line: Think good Mexican food is all tacos from the side of a truck? Think again. And again. And again.

On a slow night at Babita, chef Roberto Berrelleza glides out of the kitchen, clad in chef’s whites, to bring you a main course. “When I put this in oven,� he proclaims, sliding a towering plate of braised pork shank onto the table, “it was two and a half pounds!�

After his sixteen years as a maitre d’ at some of the finest restaurants in L.A., I guess old habits die hard – even when you’re now in the kitchen.

Situated at the quiet corner of San Gabriel Boulevard and Norwood Place with no parking and nary a street light to keep it lit, Babita seems almost like any other house on the block; eating here is less like dining at a restaurant as much as being invited into Berrelleza’s house for a family meal.

The intimate, ten-table dining room is in the capable hands of Berrelleza’s wife and their daughter, Elba (their other daughter is the restaurant’s namesake). From your first bite of the endlessly crisp house-made tortilla chips and salsa to your last, lingering moment in a luxurious flan, Elba is all smiles, making you feel comfortable, unrushed, and, well – right at home.

The stars of the starters are undoubtedly the tangy ceviches, ranging from a gentle Sope Witusi with snapper, beans, and julienned carrots, to a spirited cilantro margarita sorbet served with snapper and caviar. While these are not all successful marriages (the tequila tends to overpower the delicate fish flavor), in just one bite you will know that you have found something special.

Signature main courses like the tender barbacoa beef cheeks (slow-braised in its own juices until the meat flakes off with but a touch of a fork) and the fiery, habanero-studded shrimp Topolobampo (sautéed with citrus and white wine) are a testament to Berrelleza’s creativity; the food is at once inventive and continental, yet always distinctly Mexican. For instance, sautéed scallops are served with a white wine sauce and Mexican spices, while piping hot, hand-made corn tortillas accompany most main courses.

I keep going back because it keeps me guessing. Whether it is the sumptuous daily special or the next intriguing menu item, I always learn something new about the ingredients or the authentic flavors I’ve never tasted before. Next time, it’ll be chiles en nogata and the halibut with huitlacoche.

But first I’ll finish these leftovers from last night’s trip.

Walking into Xiomara, we were immediately greeted and given a small table next to the window. The server was very friendly and helpful, though at times a bit aggressive with his suggestions. Many things looked very tempting on the menu, including the Chilean Sea Bass on Corn Guizo ($24.50) and Pa’canton Giant Prawns ($23.50). Usually even though I’m really hungry, I can decide fairly fast. The server came around a couple of times before I decided on the Poblano Risotto with Tomatillo, Chile, and Lime Jus ($14.50).

Now, before I start lavishing praise on the risotto… I have to forewarn hungry eaters that it took Xiomara a while to get the entrees out. Even though my friend and I were hungry, it didn’t really both us. Why not? For starters, I had one of Xiomara’s mojitos. I’m finding many bars and restaurants use vodka instead of rum, which is what should be used. Xiomara sticks to the original recipe and uses Bacardi rum with real sugar cane juice. In fact, right on the bar were several large sugar canes… whether they are just there for decoration or to be used, I don’t know. The mojito was also served in a slanted glass. Think Leaning Tower of Pisa. The drink looks like it’s sitting at an angle, but it’s not, and not a drop gets spilled. While drinking my mojito, I was snacking on the complimentary appetizer, a frittata toast. I have no idea what the sauces served with the frittata are, but they definitely emote a Latin flavor to the dish. The frittata itself is just a bit eggy, which is how it’s supposed to be. I’m not sure what else were actually used in the frittata, as I was in a rush to get food in my stomach as opposed to actually tasting to decipher the ingredients. I can only say I’m glad it was served.

The entrees looked really good. I have to admit I initially had a bit of plate envy of my friend. My risotto looked a bit plain. Just rice and vegetables covered with a few slices of manchego cheese. After one bite, however, I was very pleased with my order. The risotto was simple but flavorful. I loved the amount of garlic used in the risotto - enough to enjoy, but not too much that it overwhelms and drives my lunch companion to the door. There was a bit of a kick to it, which I’m guessing was the lime juice. While this risotto was not better than the best risotto I’ve ever had, I had no problems whatsoever finishing every bit of this dish. The amazing thing, too, is even though I felt full afterwards, I didn’t feel like I had overeaten. The risotto is not as heavy as some of the other ones I’ve had.

My friend ordered the Seafood Chupe with Aji Amarillo ($18). She really seemed to enjoy this dish. I watched, trying not to salivate, as she plucked out large pieces of mussels from their shells. Also included in her entree were clams, shrimps, calamari, and scallops. She had her doubts about this dish at first, as there is nothing accompanying this entree. As she started eating it though, she realized no side dishes were needed afterall. A few pieces of the bread that came with our lunch more than satisfied.

One slight problem we had while dining… We ordered a chocolate souffle to split before we even placed our actual lunch order. We had to place the order ahead of time because it takes 40 minutes to bake. After our entrees, we forgot about our souffle. Then it came… and it was huge. Even after the server deflated our souffle to fill it with some fresh vanilla cream, it was still very big. My friend and I stuffed ourselves, but each bite was so wonderful. Aside from the company of my friend, I think the chocolate souffle was probably the best part of the entire meal.

Xiomara
69 N. Raymond Avenue
Pasadena, CA. 91103
626-796-2520

Also at:
6101 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles, CA. 90036
323-461-0601

I’m usually good for no more than one tamale at a sitting but that may be a testament to my general tamale ignorance. Here’s hoping a tamale making class helps me mend my callow ways.

Fri., Nov. 11 3:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Sat., Nov. 12 12:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m.
Sun., Nov. 13 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

1st Annual Los Angeles International Tamale Festival
1400 North Spring Street & Ann Street
Los Angeles, CA 90012



side by side still life

Originally uploaded by c(h)ristine.

We quickly valeted the car and were immediately greeted and seated. Lala’s wore a romantic, sepia interior with candles on every table and sung Argentinean songs under the sound of the indistinct voices of other diners. I thought to myself, too bad she’s just a friend or else we’d… *Wink.

As we looked over the menu, we were served some warm baguette bread with an herb/oil dip. I believe it was called “rovini�. It consisted of parsley, thyme, garlic, garlic, garlic, red pepper flakes and more garlic. Absolutely delicious. Like the Stinking Rose’s dip, I could’ve made a meal out of it. We asked for a third round.

We started out with the Tortilla de Papas, which is a potato and onion quiche. Basically a sweet potato pie with lots of butter and garlic. Yum. To spice it up a little, we topped it off with more rovini.

I ordered the popular Argentinean dish, “Milanesa�, which is a thin, deep-fried battered steak. It’ll score you some points on the cholesterol meter, but hey, once in a while is okay. To add more artery points, I got the “Milanesa Napolitana� ($12.95). It’s the same fried steak with a warm, basil red/cream sauce topped with melted cheese. My arteries! I actually removed the cheese. It was too much. My friend ordered the “Al Champignon� ($10.95), a grilled chicken steak with parsley and garlic flavored mushrooms. On top of that, we both got a 1/2 order of fries and mashed potatoes for our entrees. And a little salsa. The mashed potatoes are loaded with butter and garlic. Probably the best mashed potatoes I’ve ever had… next to wasabi flavored mash. I didn’t even touch the fries because I had eaten the whole quiche.

Total damage for tonight was only $31.75 with appetizer and drinks. What a great deal. I admire places that don’t skimp on portions. I have to admit that it was too much of a visit to Deep Fried City. Like I said, please limit yourself to Lala’s. Your arteries will thank you. I think I’ll just have the grilled chicken next time and substitute the fries/mashed potatoes for a salad. The steaks also look amazing.

Lala’s is a great place for a date because of the ambiance and you’ll really enjoy the food. There’s outdoor seating as well, for those that like to people-watch on Melrose. Enjoy.

Lala’s Argentine Grill
7229 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90046
(323) 934-6838

Jonah has already la.foodblogged about Happy Hour at the Border Grill in Santa Monica so I’ll make this quick. By just a hair, we missed Happy Hour at Ciudad, the Two Hot Tamales‘ (Chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger) Latin cuisine joint downtown. Despite the prices, I drank a capirinhia that made me woozy and a mojito with a kick. The seasoned crackers were a bit stale but the tapenades were solid. We watched the sun go down on another work day as L.A.’s downtown skyline lit up.

Ciudad
445 S. Figueroa Street
Los Angeles, CA 90071
213.486.5171

I’ve wanted to tackle a few of the cocktails in “Squeezed, Then Stirred,” since I received the June issue of Gourmet in the mail last week. My first picks were the Black-Currant Diablo and the Passion-Fruit Caiprinha. Both have somewhat elusive ingredients. I was able to find Looza, the Belgian line of bottled juices, in passion fruit but not black currant at Whole Foods in Glendale. I also visited a few liquor stores before tracking down a bottle of Brazilian cachaca — ultimately at a store called ‘Liquor Store,’ on Hillhurst, for $29.99 (!*%).

Add lime wedges and sugar to a short 8-ounce glass and mash by pounding and pressing with a wooden spoon until the sugar is dissolved. Fill glass to the top with small cubes of ice and add passion-fruit juice and cachaca, then stir well. The passion-fruit juice is tangy and tropical, the fresh lime imbues a sparkling tartness, while the cachaca lingers in the background.

It’s better to make the drinks one at a time, I think. If you’ve ever had a lousy Caipirinha at a bar, you know what I mean. And if you’ve seen “City of God,” drinking one of these after a hot day at work, is like paddling around beside a moon-lit beach with Rocket, Benny and Angelique — back before things got crazy.

The caterers queried say that there is a growing sophistication among clients who are often looking for more esoteric eats; that after 9/11 wedding parties went through the roof; that smaller courses, and dishes featuring primarily protein, are more popular.

“Catering has become more esoteric. Rather than doing an event that has an island or Caribbean theme, clients are doing something even more specific or indigenous. Rather than have a party that’s South American, they focus on Salvadoran or Venezuelan cuisine.” — Geoffrey Bernstein, City Kitchen

Among the restaurants and vendors included in the story are Angelique Café, California Crisp, Kensington Caterers , The Palm Restaurant , and City Kitchen .