Even though I added ample hoisin sauce, herbs, jalapeno, and bean sprouts from the herb plate they brought out, I couldn’t make the broth flavorful enough. It was just too bland. It wasn’t until I was halfway done with my bowl that I noticed there were no beef balls in it. By then, I was pretty full and didn’t want to bother the already swamped kitchen, but next time I’ll definitely check all the contents of my bowl before digging in.

Other than the relative closeness to my house and them being veggie friendly, another good thing about Pho Show is that despite the “west side tax,” the food was at a reasonable price. My bowl of pho (small — but more than I can eat) and a Thai Iced tea just came out to be $11-12 including tip.

While Pho Show has ample room for improvement in regards to the broth, with the gas prices as they are, I can see myself eating here when I’m craving pho and too lazy to battle traffic to go to the SGV. I was really looking forward to this place opening and having delicious broth. Maybe it’s just the restaurant going through first week frenzies, but I do hope that they work on the broth more and get their timing right with the noodles.

Celadon is a beautiful restaurant and bar/lounge that offers a unique experience. This is definitely the kind of romantic venue you could take someone special to, though the menu is actually skewed towards shared plates, hence ideal for groups of 4-5 or more.

Adjacent to the main bar are a few lounge rooms, where anyone underestimating the kick of the various sake or soju-based and other Asian cocktails can recover on one of the comfy-looking antique daybeds.

The dining room is large and glamorous (without feeling at all stuffy) and its walls are lined with dozens of flickering crimson votive candles. Along the walls, the booths are comfortable, though a little more brightly lit than the four-top tables set within the muted dining room.

Executive Chef Danny Elmaleh apparently hand selected the many South East Asian artifacts that decorate the little alcoves and nooks of his gorgeous restaurant. This same attention to detail can be found in his distinctive cuisine, offering a selection of small plates that meld traditional Asian tastes with ingredients from Europe and the Middle East.

The main thing to note here is his tendency to serve fairly generous portions. In this era of “small plates� dining, many establishments are taking advantage of this trend to offer minuscule portions with hefty entree prices.

Not so Celadon.

Two must-try appetisers are the Tuna Tartare Lollipop(s) and the citrus Hamachi starter. A long glass platter arrives bearing five substantial-looking portions per $15 (or so) plate, which is fantastic.

[Eight-18 in Toluca Lake – I’m thinking of sending you a photo of Celadon’s plated fare. $9 for two lousy shrimp with pomegranate reduction just doesn’t cut it.]

Poised on slender bamboo skewers, the ‘lollipops’ are tasty cubes of spicy tuna tartare and rice, layered with tempura seaweed, adding a satisfyingly oily crunch.

The fresh and nicely substantial cuts of hamachi are paired with citrus salsa, minced jalapeno, ponzu gelée and citrus dust. Funnily enough, the citrus powder sent me on an (ascorbic) acid flashback; this sweet and tangy dust tasted exactly like crushed orange froot loops!! I swear!

Almost every dish arrives garnished with micro greens, pansy petals or flowers and a brush of sauce reduction. The crispy shrimp toast fingers are crammed with a layer of black and white sesame seeds.

There was a fantastic toasted pepita and microgreen salad to accompany perfectly pink and perfectly cooked plump slices of Maple leaf Roasted Duck ($18 - from memory), on a bed of pureed purple potato which nicely contains a puddle of the duck juices.

We didn’t like the Grilled Octopus dish ($16 - from memory), though. But it is important to note, this is not baby octopus (a pertinent fact that eluded us at the time), therefore these slices are well-cooked but extremely chewy and, to my mind, indigestible. Flavourful but quite rich, with pesto and paired with a rather greasy sweet potato fritter. The only ‘miss’ among so many hits.

We skipped dessert, though the choices looked promising.

One thing we have to come back for is the “Saraudon� sizzling crispy noodles and rice ($18) – spied at the next table. A large, rustic stone pot (like an oversized mortar) comes to the table then sizzles as they serve the noodles and seafood (shrimp, scallops and bok choy) in front of you. Dramatic and impressive!

We enjoyed a delightful sake, the Daishichi Kimoto Honjozo, which arrived in a gorgeous bamboo carafe ($30).

Total for two was $108.00 (before tip). Dining at Celadon is sure to put a smile on your face.

Celadon
7910 W 3rd St., just West of Fairfax
Los Angeles, CA 90048

Tel: 323-658-8028

Dinner, Tuesday – Sunday

Gingergrass
2396 Glendale
Silverlake, CA

My first impression of Gingergrass felt warm and fuzzy - I love the lofty, minimalist feel. The building feels unfinished, artsy, yet oddly comfortable. No distracting frou frou scenester fanfare - and the smells were intoxicating from the get-go. The place was slammin’, and a little too warm, but that only adds to the cozy-factor. Good start.

Service was consistent and non-evasive - great for a lunchtime buzz, as everyone seemed rushed. I loved the very fresh and yummy sounding menu, loaded with unique ingredients (Asian jackfruit, pickled veggies, etc.) and all priced super duper reasonably.

They do serve a wee bit o’ alcohol, but at noon on the dial, I held back the urge. Who says I don’t have willpower?

Zee food - well, it’s strange. In a good way, I think, but the samples I had were a bit - hmm. Off. My best friend in the world is Vietnamese, and she assured me it’s anything but authentic here. Unique and fresh scores high in my book, so overall, I’d say Yes to Gingergrass. Here’s why:

Drinks:

Just sodas

Appetizer:

Gingergrass Fresh Rolls
* Crab and avocado rolled with lettuce and cucumbers served with a creamy spicy aioli
I was a little disappointed by the texture on these - the skin was too chewy and overall, unsubstantial. The flavors were a bit overwhelmed by the heavy mayo sauce - this was an OK dish. What annoyed me - they serve 1 1/2 rolls, or 3 half pieces. I loathe appetizers that become difficult to share - because let’s face it, that’s what most of us do. Why not just serve us the two whole rolls? Would it really break the bank? Grr.

Salad:

Jack and Ginger Salad (pictured above)
* Asian jackfruit mixed with fresh cabbage, lotus root, poached shrimp, caramelized shallots and topped with white and black sesame seeds and peanuts, with a shrimp sauce vinaigrette.
THIS is where things got interesting. What a unique, refreshing, and incredibly flavorful salad. The textures and, as you can see, colors, were stunning. I really loved this dish, despite it’s unexpected sweetness. The lotus root and jackfruit were succulent, juicy, and perfectly matched. I also spied a significant amount of shrimp and goodies for the low $8 price tag. This one was so well played.

Entree:

Shrimp Noodles
* Shrimp served over sticky rice noodles with shredded lettuce, pickled vegetables, herbs and nuoc cham.
Just what you’d expect - freshly wok-ed noodles, veggies, and shrimp. Tasty, but rather insignificant.

The damage for one soda, one appetizer, one entree, and one salad was about $29 before tip. Not too shabby-licious!

RESTAURANT REPORT CARD - Gingergrass, Visit 1

Ambiance - B-
Service - B-
Food (Taste) - B-
Food (Presentation) - B-
Wine/Drinks - C
Value - B+
Vibe/Energy/Scene - C+

Overall Experience - B-

Final word - Great local lunch hang, if you like ‘em original and LOUD!

BEST FRENCH BA…. HEY, HOW DO U SPELL THAT BA… SHIT. … SORRY. YEE, IT WAS THE BEST BREAD SINCE I LEFT VIETNAM. HEY, FOUND THE OWNER LITTLE CUTEE IN FRONT THE SHOP. HEY, WHAT IS HE PLAYING, COWBOY AND INDIAN, HE GOT A PLASTIC GUN …BAO BAO BAO… ANYWAY, HE LOOK JUST LIKE FATHER. AGAIN, THE BEST FRENCH BREAD U CAN FIND HERE.

I think that Jeni and her mom should start running guided tours for folks who want to make the trip to Little Saigon in Westminster: the heart of Vietnamese food in California.

The broth used to make pho at Houng Vi is a little lighter and less greasy than served elsewhere. Plenty of varieties are offered, and, as Dr. No was pleased to see, Houng Vi also has a large menu of non-pho dishes on its snazzy picture menu. These range from a very nice shrimp, mint and lettuce wrap served with peanut sauce to a crab soup with rice noodles to various stir fries and fried rice dishes.

Every dish I have tried here has been tasty, but the general consensus is that The Thing To Get is the #32: barbecue pork over rice noodles with vegetables, peanuts, a sweet and sour dipping sauce and an egg roll. (The #33 adds a generous helping of the more interesting parts of the pig to the above.) Dr. No started off griping that his Thai iced tea was too strong but once the #32 arrived there was no complaining to be heard, only chewing and noodle slurping.

Good food is even better if it is cheap: lunch runs about $7 with tax and tip and a friend got dinner for four, including two beers, for under $30 inclusive.

Usually a restaurant gets its blessing if Dr. No comments, “That was adequate,” or “That was reasonable sustenance.” But it was outside Houng Vi that we heard him say, for the first time, “That was a good lunch.” There is no higher praise than that.

Houng Vi, 15180 Prairie Ave, Lawndale, CA 90260. (310) 978-8999

Get your pho thai fix this week because Golden Deli will be closed from Jan. 10 to Feb. 10.

Previously: lafb’s Dylan ranks the finest bowls of pho in our area.

Golden Deli
815 W. Las Tunas Drive
San Gabriel, CA
91776-1071
626-308-0803

Yu serves asian small plates. It’s not fusion, it’s Asian, and if we want to get really obnoxious, it’s pan-Asian – different cuisines represented on the menu, but not really mixed together in the same dish. Sometimes it seems weird to me that things likea teacup saucer sized plate of garlic boonchi beans are served here in such high style when I can get an enormous family style plate of dry sauteed chinese long beans at a chinese restaurant. Not sure if “boonchi beans” are the scientific name for green beans, but that’s what they tasted like. They were okay, but a little overly spiced. And what of the sweet and sour kurabota pork with ruby red grapefruit? It too has a fancy name and is served in high style. About 8 pieces sit in a hammered silver plate over a little bunsen burner - but it tastes like…sweet and sour pork from panda express.

There were things on the menu I didn’t order because it just felt wrong - Korean things. Jahp chae, galbee, and kimchi bokeumbop. They were translated into ingrish on the menu, though - Korean barbecued shorts ribs, chili kimchi fried rice. If I want to eat korean food, I would go into Koreatown, but that’s just me.

Overall, Yu’s food was good, though everything seemed a little overly salted and/or spiced - and that’s coming from a saltaholic who puts extra salt on everything! That said, the place is nice - low lights, high ceilings, dark wood…a gi-normous golden buddha in the front of the dining room and huge empty birdcages hanging from the ceiling. And let’s hear it for a full bar!

But it just doesn’t seem like the type of restaurant that fits this location. There are lots of “trendyâ€? places popping up in santa monica these days, like Cinch, Lincoln, Ma’kai, Boa…but they’re not on quiet little Montana Ave. I’m not raving about Yu, but others like Daily Candy and the L.A.times seem to like it.

Yu Restaurant and Lounge
1323 Montana Ave. (@ Euclid)
Santa Monica, CA 90402
310.395.4727
www.yurestaurants.com

I’ve lived in the San Gabriel Valley (SGV) all my life and have seen the rise and fall of many, many Vietnamese Pho restaurants. I remember indulging in my first bowl of pho at Pho So 1 on Valley & Del Mar, next to Hawaii Supermarket, when I was 8. And when you’re 8, anything outside the realms of macaroni & cheese and pizza are completely foreign and ‘nasty’. The aroma of pho emanating outside of a restaurant is enough to make traffic stop. The taste of it is as refreshing as having a cup of ice water after a 30-minute treadmill run. This was 1986.

19 years later, I am still eating pho. And the San Gabriel Valley couldn’t be more saturated with Vietnamese restaurants. I may be bold in making this claim, but I truly believe that the SGV has better pho than the Westminster-based, Vietnamese enclave. Competition is way more intense there and uniformity is definitely prevalent. Pho brings the young and old together, and in most of my experiences, the sober and the drunk.

As a pho-snob, I’m going to list my top three places to eat pho. And again, I’m not going to bother mentioning Little Saigon. I’ve lived in Orange County for 5 years during my college years and frequented “Bolsa’ (another name for Little Saigon because of the avenue of Vietnamese establishments; much like SGV’s Valley Blvd.) During my college years, pho was my hangover remedy. I argue with people all the time about this and have changed their opinions like that.

A lot of people have this thing where they only go to pho places with a number in their name. God knows what those numbers mean. ‘88’ and ‘99’ supposedly allude to good luck, and the other numbers… maybe when the family first came to the states? Please fill me in on this if you know. I judge pho on the following criteria:

- Aroma
- Color of the broth
- Oiliness of the broth
- Quantity of toppings
- MSG residue

The aroma of pho should get you excited once the server hands you your bowl. It should automatically tickle your senses and nose hairs upon arrival. You should be able to see the steam rise up like a ghostly apparition into your nose, reeling you into its domain.

The color of the broth should not be white or too clear, otherwise your in for a bowl of pure MSG. A lot of shoddy restaurants can imitate the taste of pho, but only through the use of MSG. This is my preference, but I like the soup to have a brown tone to it. This is achieved through the amount of beef used in the broth, as well as the amount of roasted onions.

Oiliness. Who likes oily stuff? I believe it’s necessary to skin the top of the broth of any impurities from the beef. A little oiliness is nice for creating a shiny texture on the noodles, just not too much.

Toppings. You’ll know when a pho restaurant is doing well when they don’t skimp on the toppings. If you’re ordering Pho Dac Biet (means special and is usually the first listing you see on the menu), you should be getting a packed bowl. I’ve been to places and have ordered Pho Bo Vien (beef balls) and only got 4. Please.

MSG. Concerning MSG, you can read the section on the broth color. A good restaurant uses it sparingly. It is a necessity and completely avoidable. If you’ve eaten pho, you know how thirsty you can get. I usually end up drinking 4 glasses of water during the meal and 4 more at home. It makes you feel full and leaves an unpleasant ‘coat’ in your mouth and throat. There isn’t anything you can do about it besides going to a 7-11 and buying a big gulp to quench your thirst.

And now for the award ceremony.

Bronze medal goes to Pho 79 on Garfield/Main in Alhambra. This is a franchise and you can find them in just about any Asian enclave. Out of all the three I’ll be listing, this is the only one Zagat Rated, and with good reason. This is a typically large restaurant seating at least 120 guests and located in the new Downtown Alhambra. Movie-goers can drop by for a bowl of heaven. And you don’t need to bring elbow pads to avoid stickiness of the tables. Some of you may know what I’m talking about. Pho 79 is very clean. And the indoor plants they have add a nice ‘ambiance’.

Silver medal goes to Pho Pasteur on Valley/Rosemead in Rosemead. Pho establishments have started moving east on Valley Blvd, away from the main competition. I have to say this place is quite good. The pho, although MSG-laden, is very, very tasty and nice in broth color. They DO NOT skimp on meat. I used to be a LARGE pho bowl eater, but have downsized to the regular bowl because of Pho Pasteur. So if the waiter asks you to supersize it, just say NO! Doggy-bagging a bowl of pho is illegal. In addition to pho, a restaurant should serve good appetizers. After all, in that 8-10 minutes it takes for your order to come, you need to munch on something. I recommend their shrimp paste rolls with lettuce. Like cha gio (egg rolls), it is served with lettuce and fish sauce. It’s shrimp paste wrapped in bean curd sheets and deep fried. Oh man, heavenly. I wish these were on Jack in the Box’s finger foods menu. Oh yeah, expect a good 20-minute wait here on the weekends. It’s always family day at Pho Pasteur.

And finally, the gold medal goes to Golden Deli on Main/Mission in San Gabriel. I first went to Golden Deli in 1992 and the quality has remained consistent. This place has so much business where they can close down for the whole month of August for vacation. And trust me, people aren’t happy. That’s where the fore-mentioned restaurants start to prosper. But only for one month. Anyway, I HIGHLY recommend GD’s egg rolls – the best I’ve ever had. They give you FIVE, not four, crispy egg rolls. Their other appetizers, such as the fish paste (mentioned above), is also very good. GD also serves really good rice dishes. The other places mentioned above are not quite as good. And onto the pho, GD defines true broth color. Brown, full of onion flavor and not the least bit oily. My readers, this is truly a “Bowl of Heaven�. GD does not give as much meat as Pho Pasteur, but that’s okay. Expect a 30-minute wait here. If you want, you can also try “Vietnam Restaurant� across the street from GD. It is run by the same family of GD and specializes in “Seven Course Beef� cuisine. Also, very delectable and ‘fun’ to eat.

One final suggestion: please try out the restaurant’s broth before you ‘pollute’ it with the orange hot sauce (Sriracha) and sweet, brown sauce (Hoisin sauce). Those sauces will mask the truth behind each restaurant.

Thank you and enjoy. This is just my opinion.

Pho 79
29 S. Garfield Avenue
Alhambra, CA
626-289-0239

Pho Pasteur
8821 Valley Blvd
Rosemead, CA
626-292-5888

Golden Deli
815 W. Las Tunas Drive
San Gabriel, CA
626-308-0803

UPDATE: Franklin Avenue just posted a nice little Lotus Fest write-up with photos.


Lobster Ballin’
Originally uploaded by hexod.us.